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Petite-able?
Beginner petite wants Misses top style
margaran
margaran  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/26/12 10:15 AM

Hi,

I love the look of this pattern: http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/30567#.UNsPA-RsiRJ

I read the bad reviews about the neckline. But I really love this pattern and can't find a petite that comes close. Can you give me a list of changes I would have to make? Or can you show me a very similar pattern in a petite? I've searched PR and Google.
Thanks,
Maggie

PattiAnnJ
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In reply to margaran <<


Date: 12/26/12 11:03 AM

This pattern has many seams that could be adjusted and some may have issues with the neckline being a bit too low.

Only the person who will be wearing the garment can decide what changes need to be made.

The final answer is the ever useful muslin.

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I dont give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think its Hell. Harry Truman

"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

Marie367
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In reply to margaran <<


Date: 12/26/12 12:06 PM

Patterns do not generally come in "petite" I am tall and need to add length in spots. Pick a size based on your high bust measurement and do a trial in some cheap material (muslin) and see what you need to do. Post pics here and people will help you. It looks like it might be an easy pattern to adjust. Very cute!

EleanorSews
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Date: 12/26/12 3:40 PM

As others have suggested, making a muslin (or using an inexpensive woven fabric similar to what you will use for the final blouse) will tell you what and where you need to adjust. Choose your size by the high bust measurement and add to the full bust if need be. The high bust will more accurately fit your upper chest area which is important to avoid as much gaping at the neckline area as possible.

That said, as a petite, I usually have to shorten a little bit between the shoulder seam and the bust point (front and back); the other place that requires shortening typically is between the bust point and the waist line.

There are some good discussions about books on fitting here.

ETA: It should not be too difficult to raise that pattern's neckline so the V ends higher up a bit.
-- Edited on 12/26/12 3:43 PM --

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"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin

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Katharine in BXL
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Katharine in BXL
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Date: 12/27/12 10:57 AM

Burda magazine has published twice how they change a standard pattern to petite: subtract by folding out 1 cm or 3/8" at the 1. mid-armhole on the front, back and on the armscythe of the pattern (slightly less than 3/8" on the armscythe, but I have always done 3/8")
2. above the waist
3. below the waist

and to shorten the forewarm as well by folding out length, a good starting point is 1cm--I don't remember this measurement offhand. This is their standard upper body shortening method to shorten to 160cm. I am just under that but swear by this method and use it 100% of the time with great results.

Eleanor, it is pretty easy to raise a neckline but for this pattern there is probably a facing and the binding ratio would have to be recalculated. It's not hard, but it's an extra step not to forget.

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DD Jan 2010, DS Aug 2011: busy!
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Vintage Joan
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In reply to Katharine in BXL <<


Date: 12/27/12 11:03 AM

Thanks, that's helpful information. Not all petites need exactly the same adjustments, mind you. My daughter and I don't need the torso adjustment, for example. Also, a lot of petites also need neck and shoulder adjustments, which Burda doesn't do -- no pattern company seems to, for some reason, which means shoulders on a garment tend to be too wide and necklines too gapey. I adjust down quite a bit at the neck and shoulders.

-- Edited on 12/27/12 11:04 AM --

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solosmocker
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Date: 12/27/12 6:30 PM

I petite all my patterns before I do any further adjustments. This should take care of low gaping necklines but if not, simply add equally to each side and the facings for more coverage.
"Petiting a Pattern"
-- Edited on 12/27/12 9:28 PM --
-- Edited on 12/27/12 9:29 PM --

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