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Forum > Fitting Woes > Am I overfitting a FBA? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Am I overfitting a FBA?
for a jacket
Katharine in BXL
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Katharine in BXL
Belgium
Member since 8/1/03
Posts: 1008
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 12/27/12 11:24 AM

Hi everyone, I have my first (!) jacket pattern on my dining room table in alteration stage because, yay, I have a new job starting in March! New work wardrobe needed. This is my week off and I am determined to make progress. My fabric is a washable polyestor wool blend gabardine and has a little give to it, but not much: I'd say 2%.

The jacket is a simple Chanel-style collared jacket with vertical bust darts to reduce sewing and fitting challenges. I fitted the back, then when I fitted the front flat (without the vertical dart in) I measured 3 times and got wildly different measurements *sigh* 2.75", 2", 1 5/8. Not wanting to have a billowing front, I settled on 1.75 to err on the generous side of the narrowest measurement. While altering I rotated some of the new, big side bust dart into the vertical dart so the grainline would be a little less bias and less likely to stretch out of shape below the bust.

Then I trimmed everything down to recheck and the bust CF is 5/8" too narrow. *Argh!* I checked and checked again and again. I let out the vertical dart I pinned for the fitting and the 5/8" is the best I can get it. My side seams are pinned at their most narrow, right on the 5/8" seamline. Maybe I can let those out to see if it makes enough room?

But I have a shoulder wrinkle, not the telltale shoulder gap for a (larger) FBA but a vertical wrinkle coming from the shoulder pointing down to the bust apex. I did a narrow shoulder adjustment and the shoulderline looks right to me, but I still have the wrinkle. I'm not sure if this is a FBA clue or what. I decided to pin and "smush" out a small dart and this appears to be working. But there is still the problem (or not probem) of the bust CF not reaching the CF.

Before I take out the vast swaths of tissue that I have added and trimmed down to fit and then refit again, I just wanted to check with you on a vague little memory: that jackets can be slightly underfitted and it's OK to not reach the CF exactly at the bust if one wants to wear it open and showing a shirt underneath.

I have started and abandoned other jacket projects at the muslin stage and remember they fit perfectly at the bust, and totally hid my shirt underneath. To show a flash of colour underneath they billowed outward.

I plan to wear my jacket open for the most part.
So what do you think: should I leave it and hope it's bigger when cut out in fabric, or go through all of the FBA alteration steps again?

Hoping not to get bogged down in fitting woes... help!
-- Edited on 1/1/13 4:49 AM --

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Just another member of the PR BeNeLux Posse

Quickie
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Quickie
Member since 10/8/10
Posts: 1219
Skill: Beginner
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Date: 12/27/12 1:10 PM

A picture would help a lot

Katharine in BXL
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Katharine in BXL
Belgium
Member since 8/1/03
Posts: 1008
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 12/28/12 3:53 PM

OK, I'll see what I can do about that--and hello from not so far away here in Brussels!

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Just another member of the PR BeNeLux Posse

Clareew
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Clareew  Friend of PR
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 5/10/06
Posts: 1249
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 12/28/12 6:57 PM

Hi Katherine, I'm not sure I will be a great help with your jacket but congratulations on your new job.

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Clare

Machines: Juki F600, Juki 654 serger, Bernina 550 for art work, Janome Coverpro 1000cp barely used
A Singer Featherweight Centennial and an old Necci in the loft waiting for TLC

http://art-by-clare.blogspot.co.uk/

Clareew
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Clareew  Friend of PR
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 5/10/06
Posts: 1249
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 12/28/12 6:57 PM

Double post, sorry, computers.
-- Edited on 12/28/12 6:58 PM --

------
Clare

Machines: Juki F600, Juki 654 serger, Bernina 550 for art work, Janome Coverpro 1000cp barely used
A Singer Featherweight Centennial and an old Necci in the loft waiting for TLC

http://art-by-clare.blogspot.co.uk/

Katharine in BXL
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Katharine in BXL
Belgium
Member since 8/1/03
Posts: 1008
Skill: Intermediate
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In reply to Clareew <<


Date: 1/1/13 4:49 AM

Cheers, Clare!
As for the photo, I'm working on it. We just wound down the party season.

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Just another member of the PR BeNeLux Posse

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