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What is wrong with my skirt
gmsale
gmsale
Member since 11/12/12
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Date: 12/28/12 2:42 PM

Hi everyone,
I am a beginner, have never really sewed with a commercial pattern before - I usually try to draft my own using an existing piece of clothing that already fits. Sometimes it is successful and half the other time, I end up throwing it out. I source all my fabric from the thrift store so that it does not end up too expensive of a hobby.

I saw this skirt online with a hefty price tag of $1150 and thought I might recreate it myself.

I did it following a skirt I already owned and even cut it out on muslin before attempting to sew it on the actual thrifted fabric. I used a leather piping I made myself but when I pieced them all together, the skirt sits awkwardly on me. I believe it has something to do with the piping that runs around the circumference of skirt. It is very stiff and adds bulk to the skirt. How can I fix this so that the drape of the skirt falls naturally?
Images can be seen here (original) (my version) (back)
(side)
I would be grateful for any feedback or your thoughts. Thank you.
-- Edited on 12/28/12 2:48 PM --
-- Edited on 12/28/12 2:52 PM --

Debbie Lancaster
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Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/28/12 3:07 PM



1. The fabric is probably not heavy enough for the skirt.
2. You've cut the hemline straight across the grain. In the photo, it's clear that the hemline curves at the sides. The extension follows the same curve.
3. The skirt front appears to have been cut straight from waist to hem. You need to curve over the hips to match the natural curve of your body. The same for the skirt back.
4. The skirt back is probably cut the same as the skirt front? It should be a bit bigger to accommodate your bottom.

In summary, the skirt you've drafted -- and kudos for attempting something so challenging! -- is just not a good fit for your body. You really need to either go out and find a pattern that's similar, learn a bit about pattern drafting, or find out how to copy patterns working from something that fits. Going at it blind is a waste of time and money. And sooo discouraging!

Since you like to thrift store shop, how about finding a simple skirt at the thrift store that fits you well, then taking it apart and learning about how it all goes together?

-- Edited on 12/28/12 3:18 PM --

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Debbie

Vireya
Vireya
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Date: 12/28/12 5:07 PM

I think Debbie has covered all the bases. I was also going to suggest looking for a skirt pattern at a thrift store too, so you can see the shaping that is involved in making the garment fit a 3-dimensional body.

Nancy K
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Date: 12/28/12 6:24 PM

I agree with everything that Debbie said. The shape of the hem band is just not right, it has to continue the A line shape of the rest of the skirt. An A line skirt is not cut straight across the bottom but is gently curved. The hem band is also probably faced and interfaced, at least that is how I would do it. I think that you really need to learn more about not only drafting but construction details. My suggestion is to, use some commercial patterns, get a good beginning sewing book and if you want to continue to drafting patterns, take a course or get a book on it.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

gmsale
gmsale
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In reply to Debbie Lancaster <<


Date: 12/28/12 6:24 PM

Thank you ladies. I actually took a larger skirt apart for its wool fabric so I was limited with how much I had. I followed the grain of the original skirt so I am a little surprised that it did not work. I appreciate all your feedback, I never really understood when people say "respect the grainline" so now I know!

ASiverson
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Date: 12/29/12 11:06 AM


First off, Congrats on the great job you did do! As to the issues with fitting, I agree with all of the other posters. But you took a challenging project on and did really, really great! Keep up the good work.

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Annette

MNBarb
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Date: 12/29/12 1:19 PM

Yes. Don't give up! You are obviously not afraid of a challenge which will be a very useful trait as a sewist.

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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

gmsale
gmsale
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Date: 12/30/12 4:32 PM

Aw, thank you ladies, actually I really wanted the skirt but couldn't afford it was more of the motivating factor behind it! :)

Debbie Lancaster
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Date: 12/31/12 11:57 AM

Here's a simple pattern you could start from: KwikSew skirt. It has the lines you're looking for. Notice the curve of the hem line and waist, and the darts front and back, which would give the skirt the shaping your body needs. Get a sheet at the thrift store and make up the pattern in your size. Then alter it from there.

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Debbie

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Date: 12/31/12 9:03 PM

The seam with the piping looks like it hasn't been graded or pressed properly. That would help it lie flatter and flow more smoothly. There also appears to be a waistband on the original. The skirt is usually one inch or so bigger than the waistband waist measurement and is eased on to the waistband, giving extra fabric to flow over tummy and hips. It makes it all look a bit more natural. A good sewing book would teach all of this, none of which is hard. I admire your tenacity. With the proper tools and study you will be there in no time.
-- Edited on 12/31/12 9:05 PM --

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http://lasewist.blogspot.com/

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