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Forum > Fitting Woes > Patterns for a slim figure ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Patterns for a slim figure
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H0lly
H0lly
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Date: 12/28/12 4:04 PM

I'd love to receive suggestions for the best patterns (brands) to choose for someone with a tall, slim figure. I don't mind making some alterations to get the best fit, but I'm so tired of having to take inches out of pattern pieces. I wear a size 2 --- it's in the genes! --- and I'm 5'8". What a treat it would be to be able to buy a Burda, for example, but they're too large. I stick to Vogue usually now, but even their small sizes are too big. I thought princess seams would be helpful, but just made dresses with the seam ending at the armscye, and they were a nightmare to fit. I wonder if some of the smaller independent companies might fit offer narrower fits? Any thoughts?

sfshaza
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In reply to H0lly <<


Date: 12/28/12 4:30 PM

While I don't personally have this problem, I am starting to sew for my adult daughters, who are neither as slim as you nor as tall, though they are slim and like a RTW fit.

And, you are right, Burdas don't come in small enough sizes, which is too bad, because they have great style. I've often wondered why Burdas don't come in a greater range on the small end of the spectrum.

I find I am happy with the Jalie patterns, which have a slim cut and come in a million sizes, from children to plus.

I suspect you would still have to add length to your size, though. That just may be the way it is, just like I always have to do an FBA, even though I get soooo tired of doing that.

I also wish Jalie had more styles. I'd buy a lot more of their patterns if they had more styles for regular clothing, as I don't need skating, gymnastrics, or equestrienne wear. :)
-- Edited on 12/28/12 4:31 PM --

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PetitePear
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Date: 12/28/12 4:47 PM

I'm not really "slim", just small all over. I'm 5' tall and wear 00P in RTW (e.g. Ann Taylor or Banana Republic) If you wear size 2 in RTW, you should have a lot more options than I do. I wear size 4 in big 4 pattern size even though my bust and waist measurements correspond to size 6 on their chart (hip 8+ since I'm pear-shaped) and sometimes I even have to take it in a bit in the waist (I grade up to size 6 at hips for fitted bottom). I find independent companies may have less ease but they all start with bigger sizes so even though they might be smaller for the same size, their smallest sizes are still bigger than big 4 size 4. Burda has less ease than big 4, so their 32 (US 6) fit me OK, also (again, often taking in a bit at the waist and up a size at the hips.)

The problem is very few patterns come in size 4 or Burda 32. If the smallest size is 6 or 8, I just buy them and grade them down to size 4. It's not too hard for nested multi-sized patterns like Big 4 or Burda. There is an instruction on how to enlarge here, but reduction is just the same in reverse. If the smallest size they offer is 10 or bigger, I just say oh well and move on!

Japanese patterns often come in smaller sizes as well but they probably are too short for you so you'd have to lengthen them--in fact, you might have to lengthen the sz 4/32 patterns as well but that's even easier to do than grading down.

Red Dragon
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Date: 12/28/12 5:40 PM

Not sure about the fit, but Style Arc in Australia do smaller sizes that run close to RTW. An Aussie 6 should be close to a USA 2. They are expensive compared to the Big4, but the reviews are all positive. I've made one pattern and it was a perfect fit.
Style Arc size chart

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H0lly
H0lly
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In reply to sfshaza <<
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Date: 12/28/12 6:47 PM

Thank you so much . . . I just checked the Jalie sizing, and I fall within the parameters for the largest children's size. I've written them; perhaps their smallest women's size would work with a couple of adjustments, particularly for the stretch jeans, which I've read about on several blogs, and seem to be well drafted. Thank you so much for your response though; it caused me to check out your blog, and I really like the Style Arc 3/4 coat you made, and their sizing appears to offer a small enough option for me. Hurrah! My warmest wishes for a very Happy New Year!

H0lly
H0lly
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In reply to Red Dragon <<


Date: 12/28/12 6:59 PM

Thank you for the suggestion, Red! The Style Arc sizing chart includes my size, so I'm very grateful. They may be more expensive, but I shall try a basic sheath and a dress pant pattern. If they work well, then at least I'll have some reference for comparison. I'm most appreciative. Happy New Year!

H0lly
H0lly
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In reply to PetitePear <<


Date: 12/28/12 7:18 PM

Thanks, Petite. I guess I should just bite the bullet and practice on a muslin to see if I could successfully reduce the pattern. We all have our own fitting issues, I know; the most irritating part is the visuals of the models in the constructed patterns on the Burda site, for example. They certainly appear no larger than Size 2, do they? The patterns that made those clothes --- that what I want! I did check out your link to the instruction for enlarging, and it makes sense to simply follow them in reverse. And I will; I was just hoping that perhaps there was a company out there who produced a pattern closer to my measurements, and it does appear that maybe Style Arc would work better for me. I'll give it a try, and report back. Happy sewing, and thank you!

Vintage Joan
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In reply to H0lly <<


Date: 12/28/12 9:16 PM

Quote:
the visuals of the models in the constructed patterns on the Burda site, for example. They certainly appear no larger than Size 2, do they


The models? I would think they're larger than RTW U.S. size 2, unless U.S. size numbers are even smaller than they went down to a decade or so ago. The smallest adult size Burda usually goes down to is size 32 Eur. / 6 U.S. pattern size, and that's normally a Burda Young size. Size 32/6 measurements are 30-23-32.5. Size 34/8 measurements are 34.5-24.5-34.

Burda size chart


-- Edited on 12/28/12 9:19 PM --

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Karla Kizer
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In reply to H0lly <<


Date: 12/28/12 9:54 PM

My fitting challenges are different than yours, both vertically and horizontally but I wanted to tell you how good the StyleArc patterns are. I don't think you'll be disappointed. One word of caution: these fit my 5'3" daughter very well, and I don't have to do a petite adjustment for hereditary shortness. I emailed SA to ask for an approximate back waist length, and the answer was "about 15-1/2 inches". You'll probably need to change that.

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“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

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The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



sfshaza
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In reply to H0lly <<


Date: 12/28/12 10:00 PM

Thanks, Holly. I think you will be pretty happy with Jalie's fit.

I would also echo the compliments of the Style Arc patterns. I am a big fan. They also have RTW sizing, which means closer fitting and less voluminous. They are very well drafted.

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