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Message Board > Sergers, Coverstitch and Blindhemmers > I pinched the fabric while serging on the collar ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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I pinched the fabric while serging on the collar
My fixes in the past have only made this type of problem worse - help!
hazelnut
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hazelnut  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/28/12 6:31 PM

Does anyone know of a good way to fix the pinched serging in this collar attachment? I basted it first on the SM before serging and tried to be so careful so this type of problem *wouldn't* happen. I've (we've) lived with these errors with most of my sewing since opening up and releasing the pinch and re-serging or machine sewing has made it even worse in the past - I must not know the trick, if there is one. This top is meant to be a gift and worn in public and I would REALLY like to correct it nicely, if possible. Thanks.

biochemistress

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Date: 12/28/12 7:33 PM

I think the only thing you could do is rip it out about 1in. on either side, and machine stitch it back together, then serge to finish the edge again). I've done this before, but it wasn't with this type of fabric and was ok with a re-serge.

SecondHandRogue
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Date: 12/28/12 8:01 PM

I don't have any good advice, but I have done this and I have repaired it poorly.

What I'd really like to know; how do we avoid this? Any great ways to keep this from happening?

hazelnut
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In reply to biochemistress <<


Date: 12/28/12 8:34 PM

How did you re-serge that area without making a bigger mess? I can't seem to overlap where I start and finish "in the round" cleanly with my new serger - I get a lot of looping off the fabric when I serge off at the back of the neck. If I serge the entire neckband it will change the size. When I have only SM stitched in the past, it has come apart after a wash or two. This is a 4-way stretch poly knit too, even though it may not look like it. I'll give it a shot but I'm a little worried due to past experiences. I guess that's the only way, thanks.

simplystitches
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In reply to hazelnut <<


Date: 12/28/12 8:41 PM

If you really don't want to have to reserge just that area (I wouldn't so I don't blame you) you'd need to rip out the entire collar serging and redo it. Restitch on the sm if needed first and just "skim" the edge of the blade when serging again. That way it won't enlarge the neckline.

Debbie

hazelnut
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In reply to SecondHandRogue <<


Date: 12/28/12 8:47 PM

Quote:
What I'd really like to know; how do we avoid this? Any great ways to keep this from happening?

This is what I've read....
1) hand or machine baste to keep layers from slipping and in place (I did this),
2) go slowly and keep rechecking and repositioning/smoothing fabric every few inches ( I did this too - or so I thought),
I guess number 3) should be to have xray vision to see through all 3 layers of fabric when the above two isn't working well enough (I don't have this - sure wish I did).

This fabric is sooo stretchy but otherwise has been easy to sew. I don't have this much of a problem on the SM as I do on the serger, which is odd, since the serger should be better. I think pulling on the neckband a bit to stretch it when attaching causes it, esp. when going over the shoulder seam hump - it must twist or slip - which is why I stopped pinning in the bands and started machine basting them. I hope someone has more suggestions that can help us both!
typos's
-- Edited on 12/28/12 8:50 PM --
hazelnut
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In reply to simplystitches <<


Date: 12/28/12 8:59 PM

Thanks for another option. I may have to rip out the entire collar if a smaller fix doesn't work. Really bugs me since the SM stitching turned out nice all the way around with no pinching, so I thought serging wouldn't be a problem. Why is this never in some inconspicuous spot?

Rosews13
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In reply to hazelnut <<
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Date: 12/28/12 9:03 PM

I make sure I straighten out and see all three edges lined up together every 2 inches or so before I serge that 2 inches. I never baste first but pin in 4 places I keep my left hand on the bottom layer which is the garment and gently tug it a little and make sure it is lying completely flat before serging that 2 inches. You actually have to smooth the garment upward with your left hand as you move to each new area you are serging because the garment part wants to drag downward as you serge around the circle, sometimes catching in the serging. Hope you can visualize this.....

hazelnut
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In reply to Rosews13 <<


Date: 12/28/12 9:55 PM

Quote:
never baste first but pin in 4 places I
That's how I pinned it for the basting, I used the Sarah V. method of measuring and pinning on the neck - then I basted. I will try it a few times without basting and see if that might work better. Do you think the fabric and stretchiness plays a part in why some methods might work better than others, or do you use the same technique across the board? I ask this since I'm still learning different techniques and machines and wondering how much (if any) you need to improvise due to fabric.

Quote:
You actually have to smooth the garment upward with your left hand as you move to each new area you are serging because the garment part wants to drag downward as you serge around the circle, sometimes catching in the serging. Hope you can visualize this.....
I can visualize it...in fact I think this "drag and catch" is probably what happened. I thought basting avoided this mishap, but obviously not! Thank you I did keep checking to make sure I saw all three layers, smoothed and repositioned, but not enough I'm afraid. I'm a little intimidated by the BL serger with it's large foot and the knife far out in front. My Brother seemed to have a smaller foot and the knife was further back - it was easier to see what was going on before it happened! I probably need more sewing time with this machine to feel as comfortable with it as the Brother. I stitches nicely, but seems a little harder to judge and control the fabric.
beauturbo
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In reply to hazelnut <<


Date: 12/28/12 11:21 PM

That kind of thing, still happens to me when sewing sometimes, and I have been for a huge long time. I do pick out and fix, if it's going to be in a place where it shows. I see it in the clothes in the stores sometimes too, so it really happens to all of them too, even there sometimes! Maybe some garment inspector notices it there, and disqualifies it sometimes, depending on the garment or the place it happens at each time, but not all the time at all.

Other than just basting better or using more pins or such, or even stretching fabric a bit more evenly with hands while sewing over it, since it almost always happens on the bottom layer of the fabric where you can't see it at the time of actually sewing over it, in that way (as if you could even see before sewing it in that way, you would just stop and not do that) the way I avoid it most times, is to actually go by feel and not vision on the bottom layer of the fabric I'm sewing on. Which means as I'm sewing over something, my finger tips have actually just prior, slid along the unseen bottom part of it first to even feel for something like that forming, that might happen and be able to catch it first that way. The faster I'm sewing and less I'm paying attention and the less I'm feeling my way long as sewing, the more likely it would be to happen to me. My finger tips under the fabric, way before any knives or needles, can most times catch something like that, but not always.

I think it helps to have the piece of fabric, that is going to be either either eased in or stretched and a bit eased out as the top piece of fabric (in your field of vision) if you are just trying to keep a bit better of an eye on it too. If you think you want bottom fabric condensed a bit more or stretched out a bit more, you can always change your differential feed too, but I don't think that is always the whole thing either. That is where I think you let your fingertips sort of be your unseeing eyes on the bottom layers of the fabric instead.

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