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Lightweight wool suiting-- what to make?
Marc Jacobs reversible teal/dark plum
Margasweet

Margasweet  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/30/12 11:03 AM

I've been trying to "fabric fast" but opened a sale notice from Fabric Mart and fell off the wagon (Christmas shopping got me into the buying mood, apparently). Teal and dark plum are both great colors on me, so I thought I could make something nice from this designer fabric. My initial thought was a vest and skirt.

The package just came yesterday, and now I'm stumped. I think of suiting as relatively heavy and firm fabric, but this is lightweight and drapey. I intend to cut off a square and wash it to see if and how water changes it (I don't mind handwashing, but generally don't make anything that has to be dry cleaned). Even if it shrinks a bit, this fabric is still going to be light.

How have you used lightweight woven wool? Do you have any thoughts or recommendations? I'm 54, slightly stocky, live in an old cold house in the midwest...

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2007 fabric in: 7 1/2 yards; sewn: 7 yds
2008 fabric in, 23 yards; sewn 20 yds; given away 6 yds
2009 fabric in 41 1/4 yds, sewn 29 yds, given away 22 1/2 yds
2010 fabric in 91 1/2 yds, sewn 27 yds, given away 1 1/2 yds;
2011 fabric in: 55 yd.; sewn: 21 yd; given away: 20 yd
2012 fabric in: 60 1/4 yd., sewn 25 1/4 yds, given away 16 yds, thrown away 3 yds scraps; UFOs completed: 7
2013 fabric in: 28 yds; sewn: 25.7 yds.; given away: 5 1/2 yd.s; projects 8, UFOs 4

2014 fabric in: 34.5 yd
2014 fabric sewn: 8 1/2 yd
2014 fabric given away: 8 1/2 yd
2014 projects completed: striped maxi skirt
2014 projects started:
2014 UFOs completed: 8 (5 small gift bags, pieced & quilted table runner, maxi dress, silk infinity scarf)

nancy2001
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In reply to Margasweet <<


Date: 12/30/12 12:04 PM

Many people love Fabric Mart, but since they don't allow you to purchase individual swatches, I find ordering fabrics from them to be a crapshoot. I just received a yard and a half of Georgio Armani wool from Fabric Mart, purchased at a steep discount during their clearance sale. Although the fabric is nice, had I seen a swatch beforehand, I wouldn't have ordered it. Fabric Mart allows you to return fabrics within 30 days, but you still have to pay postage for both sending and returning the item.

I've found wool suiting is often lightweight. But even if a wool fabric is described as medium weight on a vendor's website, it often seems lightweight to me. One way to change the feel of a fabric is to fuse the entire garment with interfacing, and I frequently do that for the jackets I sew, but I don't wash them.

So my advice would be, if you're really unhappy with the fabric, return it and absorb the loss for the round trip postage fee. Otherwise, fuse the fabric to interfacing, sew whatever you like, and dry clean the garment.


-- Edited on 12/30/12 12:14 PM --

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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

rinnerin
rinnerin
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Member since 10/25/10
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Date: 12/30/12 1:00 PM

I bought this exact fabric from FabricMart (before it went on sale, you lucky duck) and made M6553.

I did prewash and dried in the dryer and it did not shrink. I prewashed on my washer's handwash setting. I plan to handwash or dryclean the finished garment.

One note I wished I'd knew is that the fabric is really ravelly. I had to use Snug Hug on the whole garment. I wish I had anticipated that and I would have serged my cut pieces before assembling the garment and cut my seam allowances a little bigger to compensate.

It's gorgeous fabric, drapey and flowy but still has to body and heft. The dress I made needed to drape but still have some weight to it and it worked perfectly. A skirt like Hollyburn from Sewaholic would be perfect for the fabric.

Have fun and can't wait to see what you make!

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Babe - My grandmother's 1936 Singer FW 221
Shiny - Pfaff Ambition 1.5
Pinky - Brother NS-40
Stinky - Babylock BL4-738D

Trinity.
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Trinity.
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Date: 12/30/12 1:51 PM

I've used lightweight suiting to still make vests. I just line them with a heavier fabric, like brocade. You have to be careful to cut and sew precisely, but the end result is very nice.

And the drape of a lighter weight wool would really look sweet in a pattern like M5523. I'm planning on making this skirt in a very lightweight gray wool

ETA: BTW, I live in snowy New England, and I wear wool all winter long. I've been surprised at how even light weight wools seem to help me keep warm.
-- Edited on 12/30/12 1:55 PM --

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Trinity

http://thimblesthreadsandneedles.blogspot.com/

JetSetSewing
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JetSetSewing  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/30/12 3:38 PM

If you take Susan Khalje's Couture Dress class on Craftsy you can use it for your project. It's underlined in organza and then lined. It takes forever but you really learn a lot!

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--Find me at JetSetSewing.com

goodworks1
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Date: 12/30/12 5:05 PM

I think I'd try to figure out some way to use both sides so they'd both show.

Maybe a longish vest with a turn-back collar/label. Nothing fused or stiff. Even a long skirt with a wrap or some sort of ruffle or hem that would show both colors.

If I could wear wool I'd volunteer to take it off your hands...
-- Edited on 12/30/12 5:08 PM --

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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com

KiwiWendy
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In reply to Margasweet <<


Date: 12/30/12 11:48 PM

they're great colours that are hard to find & if FabricMart shipped overseas I'd totally have bought some myself (even though I too am trying to fabric fast).

If you decide you hate it, I'll offer to buy it off you.

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Sydney, Australia

wendyrb
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In reply to Margasweet <<
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Date: 12/31/12 1:43 AM

Styles that show off your 2-tone fabric
Vogue 8827
The collar drape reveals both sides of the cloth. The fabrics mentioned include Ponte which can have some heft and structure.

For skirts, I'd look for those with a shorter hem in the front and longer in the back to get a peak at the inside color. Wear it with boots tights and a cowl top.

Maybe the cowl cut 1-ply, or a collar somewhat like that, would allow the colors come into play. Is your fabric too heavy and warm for an indoors top like that?

For a jacket see the recent review Kwik Sew 3977
You mentioned a vest and this pattern can be a vest too. The collar is the same principle as the Vogue dress.

Would be fun to have your fabric in hand to better feel my way into this.

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Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

VivianZ
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VivianZ  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/31/12 8:43 AM

As I live in the deep south, I only sew with lightweight or tropical wool if I want to wear it. Right now I have a princess seam dress cut out for my daughter, which I will line, and I have several patterns I want to make something for me with. Vogue 8806 , a semi fitted dress with a zipper and hood, I want to make a jumper with, or Vogue 8805, a semi fitted pieced dress. (I don't know how to link or i would). Both pieces of fabric are from Fabric Mart, THey usually tell you the weight and drape of the fabric in the description.

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height 5'2" bust 36, waist 31, hip 39.
I have way too many yards to count, and I will never use them up, but I will die trying!

Margasweet

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In reply to rinnerin <<


Date: 1/2/13 9:30 AM

Thanks, Rinnerin! It's great to have the benefit of your experience with this fabric! I'm intending now to zigzag the edges and just put the whole piece into the washing machine, and maybe the delicate setting in my dryer. What is Snug Hug?

The McCall's 6553 is a cute piece, though I think a little "young" for me. Hope you enjoy it and get a lot of wear out of it.

Marguerite

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2007 fabric in: 7 1/2 yards; sewn: 7 yds
2008 fabric in, 23 yards; sewn 20 yds; given away 6 yds
2009 fabric in 41 1/4 yds, sewn 29 yds, given away 22 1/2 yds
2010 fabric in 91 1/2 yds, sewn 27 yds, given away 1 1/2 yds;
2011 fabric in: 55 yd.; sewn: 21 yd; given away: 20 yd
2012 fabric in: 60 1/4 yd., sewn 25 1/4 yds, given away 16 yds, thrown away 3 yds scraps; UFOs completed: 7
2013 fabric in: 28 yds; sewn: 25.7 yds.; given away: 5 1/2 yd.s; projects 8, UFOs 4

2014 fabric in: 34.5 yd
2014 fabric sewn: 8 1/2 yd
2014 fabric given away: 8 1/2 yd
2014 projects completed: striped maxi skirt
2014 projects started:
2014 UFOs completed: 8 (5 small gift bags, pieced & quilted table runner, maxi dress, silk infinity scarf)

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