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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > eliminating shoulder pads

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eliminating shoulder pads
blessedtosew
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blessedtosew
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AL USA
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Date: 1/1/13 3:55 PM

I am wanting to make M6172 View A to have just a shorter length blazer. However, the shoulder pads make it look a little like a football linebacker. They are only 1/4". I am just wondering if it would be possible to eliminate them by cutting the shoulders at the next smaller size. If not, does anyone know of a similar jacket pattern without the linebacker look?

Debbie Lancaster
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Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/1/13 6:22 PM

No, you can't. The angle of the shoulder seam from neck to shoulder point changes when you eliminate pads. You would also have to change the sleeve cap shape for it to fit correctly.

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Debbie

sings2high
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sings2high  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/1/13 6:53 PM

I found that every jacket I ever tried on had the linebacker look...because I have wider straighter shoulders than average. I found that most of my clothing in the 80's and 90's fit better if I took out the shoulder pads. The most any of them required was a layer of batting.

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GlButterfly

GlButterfly
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In reply to sings2high <<


Date: 1/1/13 8:06 PM

Agree. I hate shoulder pads and always remove them from my patterns from the 80s-90s. However,, it is rare that I take them out of jackets, opting to use thinner pads and adjusting the seams.

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I have not yet begun to procrastinate

Update: soon I will decide when I will begin procrastinating.

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
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In reply to blessedtosew <<
thumbsup 2 members like this.


Date: 1/1/13 8:10 PM

Jackets look slightly better with shoulder pads unless you have wide, square shoulders. You could try using thinner pads.

Here's what I do: Trim slightly off the armhole at the shoulders and taper to a few inches down. Do the same for the shoulder seams, beginning at the armhole and taper for a few inches. Trim a bit off the cap of the sleeve.

The amount trimmed at each place will be half the thickness of the shoulder pad. If just using a thinner pad, use the info in the previouis paragraph.

I looked around for a long time trying to find a way to do this,, and finally found it. I'm almost positive that this info was from Sandra Betzina.

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I have not yet begun to procrastinate

Update: soon I will decide when I will begin procrastinating.

Tbird

Tbird
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Date: 1/2/13 3:08 AM

It's not impossible you'd just need to change the shoulder angle by dropping the shoulder seam 1/4" at the armscye. This in theory would decrease the armscye length by 1/2" total. You could compensate by lowering the armhole 1/4" front and back or preferably reduce the ease in the sleeve cap which you'd probably need to do anyways.

It's essentially doing an adjustment for a sloping shoulder. You may find you can just ease the extra bit of sleeve cap in. It depends on the sleeve cap as it is now.

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http://sewunnecessary.blogspot.com

Tbird

Tbird
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Date: 1/2/13 3:13 AM

As for recommendations which I totally glossed over when I first read your post. I am currently sewing up this lekala pattern and the fit is pretty good even with shoulder pads. It is definitely more of a shrunken blazer than the McCalls P&P pattern

Lekala 4162

The only thing is there are no real instructions but all blazers are constructed the same so you could use the other patterns instructions or go solo. Other cavet is you'd have to draft your own lining. But thats something I'd do anyways. Not sure what your comfortable but this pattern really does snap together nicely
-- Edited on 1/2/13 3:14 AM --

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blessedtosew
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blessedtosew
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In reply to Tbird <<


Date: 1/2/13 11:41 AM

Quote: Tbird
As for recommendations which I totally glossed over when I first read your post. I am currently sewing up this lekala pattern and the fit is pretty good even with shoulder pads. It is definitely more of a shrunken blazer than the McCalls P&P pattern



Lekala 4162



The only thing is there are no real instructions but all blazers are constructed the same so you could use the other patterns instructions or go solo. Other cavet is you'd have to draft your own lining. But thats something I'd do anyways. Not sure what your comfortable but this pattern really does snap together nicely
-- Edited on 1/2/13 3:14 AM --

I think I will get that. You can't beat 99 cent. I don't even think I will complain about no instructions for that price. I am not sure about the sizing though. I don't see anywhere to give the size I would need. Can you help me with that?
-- Edited on 1/2/13 11:42 AM --
NancyZL
NancyZL  Friend of PR
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In reply to Tbird <<


Date: 1/2/13 3:32 PM

I am finishing up that same Lekala pattern & used the McCall's one for instructions and also for an adjustment to the bicep. It's for my daughter who has broad shoulders & we just decided to eliminate the shoulder pads. However I did make a simple sleeve cap to give it some structure & that seems to work. Also don't forget to add a back pleat to the lining.

NancyZL
NancyZL  Friend of PR
Intermediate
NJ USA
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In reply to blessedtosew <<


Date: 1/2/13 3:33 PM

You supply your measurements for Lekala patterns.

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