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How to treat very stretchy twill?
ahrizel
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ahrizel
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Date: 1/2/13 3:47 PM

I'm going to make some stretch twill I have into a skort. This material is very stretchy, to the point where it seems more like a knit. It isn't, it's a cotton/lycra blend, with the stretch across the grain. Just playing with a sample of it I know I need to stabilize the hem or it's going to be a wavy mess. Would this be better sewn with a ball point needle? It stretches close to 50% across the grain, but it have a decent weight to the fabric. Any ideas how to best handle it for good results. I saw the stabilizer suggesting when I was searching the boards for info, but any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Mary

PattiAnnJ
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PattiAnnJ
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Date: 1/2/13 3:55 PM

Line the garment. Changing to bp needle will not have any effect.

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"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

Elcue
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In reply to ahrizel <<
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Date: 1/2/13 4:18 PM

Louise Cutting in a Threads video, Industry Insider Techniques, taught a no sew hem using weft insertion interfacing. Actually you do sew, but only on the interfacing.

1. Make a manilla template the width of the hem and use it to press the hem fold into the fabric.

2. Take two strips of Weft insertion interfacing the length of the hem cut on the bias narrower than the hem. Stitch the two strips together, sticky side out. Trim 1/4" from the stitch line.

3. Tuck into prepressed hem with the stitched side up and gently press to adhere the interfacing to you fabric.



ahrizel
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ahrizel
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Date: 1/2/13 5:25 PM

I'm glad for the replies, but I run into problems with both of them. Lining the garment won't work, this is for the One pattern, many looks contest. No lining in the original, none in the copy. And I'm not sure how to put a lining in this pattern anyway. As for the weft hem, it's a little beyond my comprehension:) I haven't cut the fabric yet, so if it won't work for this pattern, there is no loss. I'll use it for another project. But the suggestions are appreciated. And any other ideas are welcome.
Mary

Kathi R
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Date: 1/2/13 6:21 PM

I think a twill with 50% stretch across the grain is going to get "butt sprung" (that is MaryLynn in Long Beach's term, and it is perfect) .... when you sit in the skort it will stretch in the back. Have you thought of making yoga pants with the fabric? I bought a bunch of very stretchy denim that was used by Not Your Daughter's Jeans, it made the best yoga pants.



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2012 : starting stash 386, net additions 206, used 164, ending stash 428...I'm never going to get in front of this pile of fabric!

PattiAnnJ
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In reply to ahrizel <<
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Date: 1/2/13 10:55 PM

Quote: ahrizel
I'm glad for the replies, but I run into problems with both of them. Lining the garment won't work, this is for the One pattern, many looks contest. No lining in the original, none in the copy. And I'm not sure how to put a lining in this pattern anyway. As for the weft hem, it's a little beyond my comprehension:) I haven't cut the fabric yet, so if it won't work for this pattern, there is no loss. I'll use it for another project. But the suggestions are appreciated. And any other ideas are welcome.

Mary

Iron-on Tricot interfacing. Press it directly onto the fabric and it will appear to be one with the fabric. Be sure to get the plastic wrapper and follow the directions for a sucessful application.

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"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

Karla Kizer
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Date: 1/3/13 6:53 AM

Before you sink too much time into the project, check what happens when your fabric is stretched and subjected to something akin to body heat. I've learned to mistrust very stretchy wovens because sitting in them causes bubble butt and baggy knees that don't recover. Try stretching the fabric over your hand or your knee, and holding it there for a few minutes; if you see even a faint a dome shape in your fabric, you might wind up with a garment you don't want to wear. Lining it could cause even more complications, since you're them dealing with two layers with competing stretch factors. And please accept my apologies for being such a pessimist about stretchy wovens.

------
“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



cathy45
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Date: 1/3/13 10:00 AM

What about altering the game plan to a skirt to minimize the bubble butt and using Steam a Seam for the hem like on a knit?

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Cathy

"I'm not messy, I'm creative" - Mary Engelbreight

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