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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Bias under sleeve

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Bias under sleeve
Is this a bad idea?
PeppermintPam
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PeppermintPam  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/2/13 5:49 PM

I'm making a sheath dress with a 2 piece sleeve. The muslin fits pretty nicely. I changed the long sleeve to a short sleeve (I won't have quite enough wool crepe for the long sleeves), and was wondering if it would work to cut just the under sleeve on the bias. The short sleeve (which ends above the bustline) on the muslin is slightly restrictive (when I raise my arm), so if I cut just the under sleeve on the bias I was thinking it would provide just a little more give. It's not a very big piece.

Am I way off base on this? Am I headed for disaster? Once I commit, there's no going back - so, do you think this would work, or should I just stick with the straight of grain? I am underlining with silk organza, and will be lining with silk crepe de chine. This will be the most expensive dress I've ever made and I'm a little nervous about botching the job... but, at least it would be in a pretty inconspicuous place


Any thoughts? Please?

Scheri
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In reply to PeppermintPam <<


Date: 1/3/13 3:54 AM

I am just working through the Craftsy.com online class Sew the Perfect Fit Muslin. Chapter 8 deals with sleeves. Do you have enough circumfrance? It could be that you have a forward rotation of your shoulders which would effect the tightness of your sleeves and restrict movement. Check your muslin sleeve grainline and cross grain. If your crossgrain is pulling back towards the back of your bodice you need to slash the sleeve cap and add enough fabric to rectify the crossgrain. I hope this helps but I would suggest that if you have invested a great deal of money for the couture dress you have planned check out the online class.

You can sign up for this class for $14.99 usd BEFORE Jan 8, 2013. Look for the post I did with the link for discount.



link for discount

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Scheri Manson
Edmonton, AB CANADA

PeppermintPam
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In reply to Scheri <<


Date: 1/3/13 9:11 AM

Thanks for your suggestions. I'll double check everything, and thanks for the link for the discount at Craftsy.com - I'll check it out!

Tbird

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Date: 1/4/13 6:58 PM

Almost sounds like an armhole problem perhaps the armhole is too long since it gets stuck when you try and raise your arm.

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Sew4Fun
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In reply to PeppermintPam <<
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Date: 1/4/13 7:33 PM

As this will be "the most expensive dress you have ever made" I would rip one of the sleeves from your muslin and re-cut a new sleeve with the under sleeve on the bias. In other words, take the extra time to test the bias sleeve using a fabric as similar to your wool crepe as possible. It might be worth testing other fit solutions as well.

Yes all this toiling is a complete pain and at times frustrating but it's less frustrating than ruining your nice fabric.

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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

solosmocker
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Date: 1/5/13 9:41 PM

I would add a gusset. That should help a lot.

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rivergum
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Date: 1/6/13 4:08 AM

I would make the dress sleeveless, but that is just my lazy way of solving the problem. My reasoning is that you can always put the sleeves in later if you miss having them.

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Taking in is happier than letting out.

Sydney, Australia

PeppermintPam
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Date: 1/7/13 5:19 PM

Well, I knew Sew4Fun was right, (mumble, mumble) so I cut a new under sleeve from muslin, and re-assembled the entire muslin - yes a real pain, but I'm so glad I did.

I checked what you recommended, Scheri, and I have 2 1/2" of circumference ease and the grain lines are running straight. Actually the original fit of the muslin is really good - and maybe I implied that the problem was worse than it really is. I really can move my arm pretty well - forward, backward and up, with just a very slight restriction. I even hate to use the word restriction, but I can't think of another word for it.

I mostly wanted to know if anyone had ever tried cutting just the under sleeve on the bias - just to give a tiny bit more give to the fabric. Anyway, the muslin is re-assembled, and I really like the little bit of give the bias under sleeve has provided!

That was a great suggestion about using a gusset, solosmocker, but it looks like this time I won't need it after all.

I'm in the process of hand basting my underlining to the wool crepe, (this couture dress is a very slow process for me), but when I get the dress done I'll post an update on how I like the bias under sleeve. Thanks so much for everyone's input.

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