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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > How do I reduce seam allowance from 5/8 to 1/4?

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How do I reduce seam allowance from 5/8 to 1/4?
ShantiSeamstressing
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ShantiSeamstressing
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Date: 1/4/13 10:54 PM

I've read of this time-saving and more efficient technique here and there, and was just reading of it again at Sarai's blog post about tips from industrial sewing. I've sewed with 1/4" SA before, when they were part of the pattern, and I do prefer them, but I don't know how to alter a pattern that already has a 5/8" SA - i.e. all the Big 4 patterns, for sure, that I sew from. If I just ignore that 5/8" SA...my garment won't fit right, yes? There's probably a simple way I'm not aware of at all.

Elcue
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In reply to ShantiSeamstressing <<
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Date: 1/4/13 11:04 PM

The simple answer is to trim away 3/8" from all seam allowances on the pattern. It should be exactly the same. The stitch line remains the same.

ShantiSeamstressing
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ShantiSeamstressing
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In reply to Elcue <<


Date: 1/4/13 11:40 PM

Thank you! Now isn't that simple and I'd never thought of it. True....stitch line doesn't change. Ahhh, little things. Thanks a lot. I do prefer not fussing with the extra SA when I already know how the pattern will sew up.

Tbird

Tbird
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Date: 1/5/13 2:24 AM

Changing the seam allowance is a must imho. I usually reduce to 3/8" and 1/4" on all outside edges like facing and lapels.

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http://sewunnecessary.blogspot.com

CathrynR
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CathrynR  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/5/13 8:48 AM

Trace out 1/4 inch from the seam line. This give you an accurate 1/4 seam allowance. There are tracing and even rotary cutting tools which will automatically trace/cut a 1/4 inch seam allowance if you run it along the seam line. I feel more comfortable making the 1/4 allowance from the seam outward, than just cutting off from a 5/8 allowance inward. But either method could be used.
-- Edited on 1/5/13 8:49 AM --

bbj91942
bbj91942  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/5/13 10:28 AM

Best tip I've run accross is to stitch with no thread on the tissue 3/8 (or 1/4) inside the cutting line using the pressure foot and needle position for accuracy. This perforates your new cutting line.

ShantiSeamstressing
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ShantiSeamstressing
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Date: 1/5/13 12:53 PM

Thank you for all the ideas! I definitely look forward to trying these out. It will be nice not to have to deal with all that excess.

ASiverson
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In reply to bbj91942 <<
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Date: 1/5/13 1:32 PM

Quote: bbj91942
Best tip I've run accross is to stitch with no thread on the tissue 3/8 (or 1/4) inside the cutting line using the pressure foot and needle position for accuracy. This perforates your new cutting line.

I like this tip. Thank you for sharing it. And thanks to the person who started this thread. I usually sew apparel with a 1/2" seam allowance. I always measure 1/2" from the seam out just to be sure it is 1/2" all around. I wouldn't measure in from the seam allowance that's already there if it does exist. Anyway, good luck and let us know how you make out!

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Annette

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