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Forum > Fitting Woes > Problems fitting back- excess fabric on midback ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Problems fitting back- excess fabric on midback
Vogue 8765 fitting help
Ravensara
Ravensara
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Date: 1/5/13 10:40 AM

rightsidewrongside.com

My back fitting problems have been keeping me from being able to make wearable garments. My unaltered muslins have a huge bubble mid-back. I have been able to improve the fit of this dress by removing long triangles of fabric running diagonally from the sides of my neck to my armpits, and by shortening the waist 3/4 of an inch. Are these the correct alterations? What other alterations should I make? Please see link above for pictures and a full description of how I have altered the muslin.

Also, is it normal to have wrinkles on your back on garments with kimono sleeves?

Any help is appreciated!

nicegirl
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nicegirl
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Date: 1/5/13 10:57 AM

It looks like the back isn't too wide, it's too long. Shorten it from a little above the waist (you'll have to take out the zipper to use this iteration) and try adding some of the width back in.

Some wrinkling near the armpit and a little beyond is totally normal with kimono sleeves, unless you are doing a fitted kimono sleeve with an underarm gusset.

------
http://theslapdashsewist.blogspot.com
=================
2007: purchased 115+, sewed 105+
So close to parity, yet so far

Trying again in 2008
Yards purchased: 133
Yards sewn: Somewhere around 95

2009? I give up

Debbie Lancaster
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Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/5/13 10:59 AM

First thing: Loosen the muslin top to bottom. It's too tight, which you can see in the photos by the horizontal strain lines and the zipper bulging. Either narrow the side seams or the darts. Then see how it looks. You might consider going up a size or half a size.

Next thing: You'd get a better idea what your fitting challenges are if you started with a standard fitting shell that has a bodice, skirt, and standard sleeves. Here's one: Palmer-Pletsch fitting shell. Kimono sleeves are not universally flattering, even if they are "easier."

------
Debbie

Elcue
Elcue  Friend of PR
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In reply to Ravensara <<


Date: 1/5/13 11:38 AM

Kimono style isn't supposed to be closely fitted. Unless you fabric is very drapey at best you are going to have a boxy look with wrinkles under your arm.

The grainline of the fabric on the sleeve is not ideal for attractive drape. The fitted dress really needs a set in sleeve. There is a reason Vogue only has illustrations for this type of garment.

I was taught that the wrinkles in the muslin point to the problem. I agree with Debbie's excellent advice.

SandiMacD
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Date: 1/6/13 7:22 AM

I just took Sarah V's PR bodice class. Even if you figure this out now, you might want to sign up for her future fitting class- its unvaluable. If you have the enegy to upload daily, she looks at every photo detail and tells you just what to do next.
Some main take-aways for me- start loose, leave off all neck facings and arm pieces. Start from top and center and work down and out. Draw lines on muslin to be parallel to floor and vertical center front and back. When you make alterations dont skew those lines- keep the horizontal and vertical relationshhips.
After everything is fitted- then do your neck and arms. Sarah even goes in to how to tailor both to fit your body. Its a very intensive class so if you are interested it helps to have your pattern, yards of muslin and 1-3 hours a day to study her handouts, sew or post.
I think it will be cheaper than books and all the muslin and frustration. But PR members have posted some great stuff here already so you may not need or want a class!
And then there are always knits or cotton spandex which is a bit more forgiving then woven.
You have put in a lot of good effort and I am sure you will have a dress then looks really nice when you are done.

------
sewing brings joy and meaning to my life...

Elona
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In reply to Ravensara <<


Date: 1/6/13 1:01 PM

Singer has a great paperback book titled The Perfect Fit, which has lots and lots of photos and is one of the best fitting books I've ever run into. In it, they have photos showing how to determine the shape and pitch of your shoulders and how to adjust the fit properly.

One of our members has kindly posted
the relevant photo, and as you can see, your shoulders are fairly sloped. That is what is causing those diagonal wrinkles from your neck to your armpit.

This fitting problem is pretty easy to fix with standard set-in sleeves, but is a bear for someone with less experience, working with a pattern with cut-on sleeves like those on your Vogue pattern.

As has been noted, the bodice of your dress is tight enough that probably you could go one full size up.

I second the suggestion to get something like Vogue's fitting shell 1004 which will help you get to know your shape better and provide you with an orderly system (very important) for fitting adjustments.
-- Edited on 1/6/13 1:03 PM --

Sewliz
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In reply to Ravensara <<


Date: 1/6/13 5:47 PM

It looks like the bust area of the muslin is much too small for you and with the lack of space there the fabric is being pulled forward from the back. A larger cup size would help, or a full bust adjustment of some sort. Once you have enough fabric to properly cross over the bust area the underarm and back area can relax and be where it should be rather than being pulled forward.

------
Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

solosmocker
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Date: 1/6/13 6:01 PM

I totally agree with Debbie's assessment. I tried to post on your blog but got some strange responses.

Let out those side seams/ darts in the bodice and let them fall where they want to go. Good fit "skims" and is not skin tight. I also think your sleeves/biceps are way too tight and adding some ease in that area will eliminate some of the wrinkles as well. So between adding more ease into the bodice and the sleeve as well, I think you will have it licked! Good luck and keep us posted on how it goes.

------
http://lasewist.blogspot.com/

Ravensara
Ravensara
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Date: 1/7/13 7:43 AM

Thanks for all the suggestions! I am going to go up a size, and concentrate on the fit of the shoulders and bust before moving onto other areas. I now realize I need to make more systematic alterations to the pattern. I also joined a local sewing club to find a fitting partner so I can make a fitting shell, since none of my local friends sew. I just started Crafty's fitting class, so I am going to temporarily abandon this project until I am done with the class. Thank you all again for your help.

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