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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > adding lining to dress

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adding lining to dress
what about interfacing?
ArtsGirl
ArtsGirl
Member since 1/2/11
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Date: 1/6/13 5:58 PM

I purchased New Look #6095, a short sleeved shift-ish dress that I plan to line, just because I need practice lining things. My question is this: What do I do about interfacing? I know with a lining I don't need facings, but I'm fairly certain the neckline would benefit from the additional support of interfacing. I'm making it in cotton with a cotton batiste lining. Should I cut out the facing pieces and fuse them to the lining, or omit interfacing all together? Thanks for your help.

PetitePear
PetitePear
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Date: 1/6/13 6:43 PM

There seems to be several ways of dealing with this, the most common one being keeping the original interfaced facing in addition to the lining. Just sandwich it between the fabric and lining when you sew in the neckline. RTW garments almost always use this method because garments look nicer on the hanger with the facing (plus a place to sew on the labels!)

Other methods I've seen are using thin strip of interfacing on the neckline seam or stabilize it with something like twill tape. There are probably others I"m not remembering.

ArtsGirl
ArtsGirl
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Date: 1/7/13 10:19 AM

Oh I love the twill tape idea! Where do I place the tape and sew? For example, do I center it on the seam line and stitch through the middle so it will fold in half when the seam is sewn and turned right side out? Or do I place it down like 1/2 inch so I'm just catching the top edge in the stitching and then when it's turned right side out, there's less bulk?b thanks or your help!

PetitePear
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In reply to ArtsGirl <<


Date: 1/7/13 1:47 PM

Quote: ArtsGirl
Oh I love the twill tape idea! Where do I place the tape and sew? For example, do I center it on the seam line and stitch through the middle so it will fold in half when the seam is sewn and turned right side out? Or do I place it down like 1/2 inch so I'm just catching the top edge in the stitching and then when it's turned right side out, there's less bulk?b thanks or your help!

I pulled out a dress instruction where we're to use twill tape for this purpose and it says to center twill tape over seamline on the wrong side of fabric and baste it in the very first step, before the rest of the constructions. I believe to keep the neckline from stretching out while you're sewing the dart, gathers, other seams, etc. So, yes, center, and do it first thing, don't wait until you're attaching lining.
ArtsGirl
ArtsGirl
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Date: 1/7/13 5:23 PM

Thank you so much! I was concerned it would add too much bulk, but I will plan to do it that way on a scrap and make sure I like it. I LOVE the idea to do it right off the bat -- I wouldn't have thought of that.

Lynnelle
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Lynnelle  Friend of PR
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In reply to ArtsGirl <<


Date: 1/7/13 8:41 PM

I fuse interfacing directly onto the lining at the armhole and neckline. It works great and you don't need facings. I briefly describe the method in this review.

PetitePear
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In reply to ArtsGirl <<


Date: 1/8/13 2:44 AM

If twill tape is too bulky for you, other alternatives besides fusible interface are: silk organza strip, rayon seam binding tape and selvage from a thin fabric. I've read about all those options in books but haven't tried them myself, though.

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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In reply to ArtsGirl <<


Date: 1/10/13 8:32 PM

That's a great pattern. I need to consider it for some really special Liberty I have! I don't want to break up the print. I often use this method from Threads to line dresses when I feel like the neck would benefit from a little extra stability. Essentially, you cut your facings and then cut lining pieces from the dress pieces. Finish the edges of your facings (I turn them under a 1/4 or finish them with pretty bias) and then attach them to the lining pieces, then treat the lining and facing as one unit to attach to the dress.

These days, I find myself avoiding fusible interfacing too. In your case, I would probably use a piece of batiste as my interfacing. I find it more comfortable and breathable, but also I don't have to worry about the fusible bubbling up later.

Sometimes, you may not need interfacing or facings at all. It depends on the fabric and your own preference.

------
Melanie

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