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Message Board > Fitting Woes > vogue v8685 rounded back adjustment? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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vogue v8685 rounded back adjustment?
is that what I need pics attached
BMoyer
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Date: 1/11/13 6:35 AM

Hi,
I am posting pics in hopes that someone can advise me on what the issue is here.
Thanks
Betty
From January 11, 2013


From January 11, 2013


From January 11, 2013

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to BMoyer <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 1/11/13 7:29 AM

What I'm seeing is a high hip on your right side (horizontal fold just below your waist on that side) and your back waist is about 1/2" shorter than the pattern. Your left shoulder also appears to roll forward more than your right (note your undergarment showing more on that side), or your left bustline is a little fuller than the right and your FBA is off. The front of the dress, at the hemline is higher than the back. This might be due to a full bust issue, or the upper part of your tummy.

My solutions: Where the waist is, on the upper part of the band, take a deeper seam across the back, about 1/4" more to pull that fold up; add a tad more on the right side.
As to the upper left side, it looks like there are two seams above the armhole. The second one on the left side, closest to your bustline, can be increased just a tad on the outside, where the armscyle is and tapered to nothing at the center of your shoulder.
Try the dress on again and see how balanced the hem is. If everything else fits above, and only the hemline is uneven, add a little more to the hem where it's uneven.

Other than those three, this is a great dress and a beautiful color on you.

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BMoyer
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Date: 1/11/13 8:27 AM

Thanks for the compliment :), This is a raglan sleeve dress muslin, I just added the bottom part to weigh it down a little to mimic the skirt so I could get an idea of the fit of the bodice, the problem is in the back at the top at the neck, it is setting away from my neck, and I am trying to figure out if I have a rounded back or just forward thrusting shoulders or square shoulders before I cut into my fashion fabric. I really appreciate you looking.
The issue comes and goes if that makes any sense. I put this on and wore it around most of the evening, and I can't really figure what the issue is.
Betty

BMoyer
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Date: 1/11/13 8:28 AM

Looking back at your comment, I am thinking it is forward thrusting shoulders? Maybe if I add a little to the back shoulders and take that away from the front it will lay smoother?

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Date: 1/11/13 2:16 PM

Does the pattern or photo indicate if the back neckline is scooped? If it is not, then you def need more upper back length. Otherwise, it doesn't look bad.
I think the problem isn't the thrusting shoulders (the shoulder seam appears to be centred over your arms, it would be back a bit if your shoulders were forward), but the gape in the front. I think you need to take a dart at the front armhole and rotate it into the bust dart.

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Date: 1/11/13 2:20 PM

Hmm, upon further reflection - and looking at the third photo, I still think you need a dart, but your shoulders seem to be thrusting backward, not forward. Are you sure this is how you usually stand? If you do, you have very erect posture!! You would need to do the reverse of a fwd shoulder and give fabric to the front, where it meets the raglan seam. I don't have a lot of experience with raglan seams, though, so I'm not totally sure how this would go.

BMoyer
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Date: 1/12/13 3:26 AM

I did try the forward shoulder alteration and it really didn't work out lol.
I am beginning to think the program is a square shoulder issue with a slightly rounded sway back lol. Which is causing the fabric to be loose at the top of the neck and then pile up at my waist. It also may just be too snug at the waist. I recut the bodice in a smaller size and applied those changes and it seems to look alright. I will post a review of my journey and completed dress if it doesn't turn out too awful lol.

BMoyer
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In reply to SVN <<


Date: 1/12/13 3:29 AM

Hi Svn
yes the pattern does say the back is 2.5 below neck, so it is supposed to be scooped. Thanks for the suggestions and the input. I have cut the dress bodice in a smaller size and am going to put it together later today. The actual fabric is much thinner, I may be sorry I did this, but how else will I learn.
Betty

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