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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > FBA on a Burdastyle magazine pattern

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FBA on a Burdastyle magazine pattern
relliotts
relliotts
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Date: 1/15/13 12:27 PM

This is my first attempt at a Burdastyle pattern. I know I'll need to do an FBA (I always do - DDD/F cup; no getting around it). I traced the pattern out according to my high bust measurement as I usually do with Big 4, but I'm just curious if using the high bust measurement is the standard recommendation with Burdastyle as well.

Thanks!

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Silk Challis
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In reply to relliotts <<


Date: 1/15/13 12:32 PM

Quote: relliotts
I traced the pattern out according to my high bust measurement as I usually do with Big 4, but I'm just curious if using the high bust measurement is the standard recommendation with Burdastyle as well.



Thanks!

Yes, you can go with the high bust measurement with Burdastyle too.

Check the other measurements as well, like the shoulders and the hips, for you could need to blend between sizes.

If in doubt, just sew a muslin.
Elona
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In reply to relliotts <<


Date: 1/15/13 3:37 PM

First, always make a muslin with a new pattern, to avoid disappointment.

Second, Bobbie Carr, a famous Burda maven and sewing instructor here, always told students to choose the bust size by your actual full bust measurement. She said the chest/high bust size would be taken care of by a little-used measurement that Burda patterns always include: the neck circumference, which also determines the shoulder area.

No one ever takes that neck measurement, much less follow the other instructions that are always in both the Burda mags and the envelope patterns, but if one were to use that measurement chart exactly as instructed, a remarkably individualized pattern would be the result.

MissCelie
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In reply to relliotts <<


Date: 1/15/13 3:52 PM

I don't know if I can be too helpful. But, I am the same cup size as you and just do a one inch width and 1/2 inch length adjustment in Burda. I sew a 38 on top with a bust measurement of 34.5. I don't have my tape measure at the office to be sure, but I wear a 32F/DDD. When I sew a 40 Burda with an FBA, it's too big. Burda's diagram shows bust as the fullest part, not the underbust.

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GBK

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Date: 1/15/13 4:19 PM

Burda's measuring chart show to measure the full bust (burda actually does not measure the high bust). Even in very fitted styles, I find burda patterns drafted true to size.

This is, however, different for the shoulder width: at least for me, burda patterns run always large. And I have rather broad shoulders!

I'd therefore second Elona: a muslin would be highly recommended and will pay off.


HTH
-- Edited on 1/15/13 4:20 PM --

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relliotts
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Date: 1/15/13 5:00 PM

Thanks, everyone. I do plan to sew a muslin first, so hopefully that will offer some enlightenment :)

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Elona
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In reply to relliotts <<


Date: 1/15/13 8:06 PM

Just to repeat a bit of advice: Find that measurement chart in your magazine, and follow the suggested steps exactly as they are listed, even circling numbers if they tell you to.

Doing this stuff will help you understand how very personalized these patterns can be.

KiwiWendy
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In reply to Elona <<
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Date: 1/15/13 9:23 PM

I'd take that advice to use full bust for Burdas with a grain of salt. Like so much of sewing, it depends on the person you're fitting.

For example, I'm a UK G cup, with narrow shoulders and a thick neck (so my shoulders seem even narrower). If I used my full bust or neck circumference to pick the starting size, then everything else in the pattern needs to be taken in including the shoulders, instead of the easier fba & neck adjustment.

Having sewn from Burda magazines for over 30 years, and having had an extreme FBA for only about 15 years, I can honestly say that getting a good fit is tricksier with a mega FBA compared to a D cup.
-- Edited on 1/16/13 0:22 AM --

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Elona
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In reply to KiwiWendy <<


Date: 1/15/13 10:13 PM

Yes--and no. When you're talking about about a GG bust cup, just for example, there's a lot to be said for following Burda's directions, exactly as they are written, to make a muslin. Then you have the basic Burda model--and you can alter as needed for your particular, unusual needs. Still, at that point, you have a model to work with, based on the Burda mold, and not distorted by unnecessary a priori alterations, which would have no value at all for future use.

KiwiWendy
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In reply to Elona <<


Date: 1/16/13 0:19 AM

yes and no.

For example the back piece/s would be much wider than I need by at least an inch. It's still easier to only alter the front bust & neck than every single pattern piece. I view doing that as unnecessary alterations that would have to be repeated with every future use.

I've genuinely read the burda directions and they are very good, but don't necessarily work the best for those at the extreme ends of the bell curve of 'normal'

I've used burda magazines for over 30 years, but only had a mega FBA for around 12-15. As useful as their detailed directions are, I can honestly say that it's tricksier getting a flattering mega fba than it was as a D or even E cup.
-- Edited on 1/16/13 0:27 AM --

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