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Message Board > NEW to PatternReview? > Front Seam on coats ( Moderated by Lynnelle)

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Front Seam on coats
Marcia R
Marcia R  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/19/13 11:15 AM

I have noticed that the front seam on coats is often distorted and does not hang straight on the body. Taping the seam with twill tape is suppose to stabilize the seam, but it still seems to look askew instead of ramrod straight as it should.
Does anyone have suggestions on how to make that seam hang perfectly straight?

Nancy K
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In reply to Marcia R <<


Date: 1/19/13 10:14 PM

What seam are you talking about?

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tinflutterby
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Date: 1/20/13 4:15 AM

If the grain line is even a little off it's going to show here, so will any stretching or unequal tension on the face fabric and facings perhaps from ironing rather than pressing before you even got to cutting.

beauturbo
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In reply to Marcia R <<


Date: 1/21/13 6:19 AM

If you mean when moving around and walking and not just standing there perfectly still, maybe you need some extra "walking ease" as in extra fabric in the side seams for that to allow that to happen when buttoned up and walking? If you mean when just standing still though, I guess that could not be it. If all else fails, and already made up, maybe you could just weight it with something there, like a chain or some quarters in some fabric pockets hidden in between coat, interfacing and lining, along the front opening, that might do something good as sort of a cheat?

couturemom
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Date: 1/21/13 6:35 AM

My Christmas vacation project was actually to rip open a coat I made last year to try to correct a similar problem. I did not interface it properly (was too lightweight), and the fabric had more give than I thought, so the front facing ended up being a bit wavy. It also curved out at the bottom corner.

So I applied hair canvas and tried to shrink the lengthwise grain a bit. I also added washers for weights at the bottom and tried to round the corner towards the inside by using strategic stitches while hemming.

If you're talking about the front edges not hanging perpendicular to the floor, I understand the frustration and have had that occur on occasion. It could possibly be corrected by adding to the seams on the side and back (if the coat is pulling towards the back). This, of course, may add fullness you don't want. If the side seams are hanging correctly, I'm not sure what to do.

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