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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > how to add volume to sleeve?

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how to add volume to sleeve?
dollydolittle
dollydolittle
Member since 2/15/09
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Date: 1/21/13 6:01 AM

Hi there,

I'm just about to make new look 6107 and would like to add extra volume to the bottom of the sleeve so that it balloons out more.

This should be really easy, but now I come to do it I'm not sure where to slash (from top of sleeve head or from below underarm?) how many slashes to put in, and what about the hemline curve, should it echo the original, or does it need to be more curved (as in how it looks once the slashing has happened)

Many thanks in advance (have googled and searched but this is obviously so simple no one has done a tutorial on it!)

Pip
Debbie Lancaster
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Date: 1/22/13 12:32 PM

Which view? A or B?

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Debbie
Viking Designer II, Babylock Imagine, Babylock BLCS 1 coverstitch

dollydolittle
dollydolittle
Member since 2/15/09
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In reply to Debbie Lancaster

Date: 1/23/13 12:37 PM

View A.

I think I might be over complicating things as usual!
Debbie Lancaster
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Date: 1/24/13 0:12 AM

Here's one tutorial for adding fullness to a sleeve. Depending on the look you want, you would start higher or lower on the sleeve, and add more or fewer slashes. You just have to experiment a bit until you find the combination you're looking for. I don't think there's any magic equation, unfortunately.
-- Edited on 1/24/13 0:12 AM --

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Debbie
Viking Designer II, Babylock Imagine, Babylock BLCS 1 coverstitch

ryan's mom
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ryan's mom
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Date: 1/24/13 6:57 AM

Dolly, you are not a PR member so I don't think you will be able to access Debbie's link. Here is another Internet link that shows how to do it. Look at the very bottom of the blog post, "How to Draft Bell Sleeves". It shows how to slash and spread from the cap down to the bottom of the sleeve.

bell sleeve pattern modification

With one caveat...create a hinge point at your seam allowance line if your pattern has seam allowances. Meaning, make tiny slashes from the pattern edge of the cap up to, but not into, the cap seamline. Then make a slashes from the bottom up to the the seamline at the cap. You don't want to separate the seam allowance from the pattern. This way, when you spread the sleeve, the seam allowance slashes at the cap will overlap slightly without bunching the tissue. The seamline itself will not change in length because you didn't make any cuts right into the seamline to distort the length.

It's hard to tell from the blog, but it looks like the blogger removed the seam allowances from the sleeve in the illustration, then recopied the altered pattern piece onto new tissue and added the seam allowances back in.

I'm sure there are other tutes for how to do this on the Internet that are even better. Just research a bit and then proceed. It's actually a very easy pattern modification, not hard at all.
-- Edited on 1/24/13 6:58 AM --

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Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3, Singer Model 99, Singer 221/Featherweight. Sergers: Babylock Imagine and Babylock Ovation. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Embroidery/Sewing Combo: Brother Dream machine. Coverstitch: Babylock BLCS. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.

If you think your sewing is better than everyone else's around here, get out of my way b****. I hate sewing snobs.

My blog: www.phatchickdesigns.blogspot.com

Debbie Lancaster
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In reply to ryan's mom

Date: 1/24/13 1:42 PM

Ah, I forgot about not being able to access the content! Thanks for pointing that out and finding another tutorial!

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Debbie
Viking Designer II, Babylock Imagine, Babylock BLCS 1 coverstitch

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