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Forum > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > Eliminating midriff panel and changing to french darts ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Eliminating midriff panel and changing to french darts
prostheticsgirl
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prostheticsgirl
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Date: 1/21/13 7:55 PM

I posted this in pattern mods but only recieved one response and I need some help!

One of my good friends is having a 1950s themed wedding this spring, and I purchased this dress just for the amazing fabric. It is vintage but the fit is so off (couple of inches too long in bodice, WAY to wide in the shoulder, back, bust, and hips) that it is a total redo. I'm in the process of carefully ripping the entire thing apart now to see what I have to work with.

I've made Butterick 5455 before and it fit me really well and it is the basic dress shape and neckline are close to what I'm looking for. I really love this vintage dress but probably won't open up the neckline and back quite so much.

I would like to make the following tweaks: eliminate the pockets, midriff panel, and neckline darts. How do I remove the darts and midriff panel (which is contoured and not straight across)? I've read my books on slash and spread to move the darts, which seems good in theory, but failed in execution. The lining offers little help. It still has the midriff piece but the neckline darts are converted to two super large darts at empire level. To further complicate matters the original bodice front has french darts, which have been trimmed on the inside so I have massive wedges removed

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to prostheticsgirl <<


Date: 1/21/13 9:02 PM

From what I can see, it's simpler than you think.
As to the neckline darts, close them. Rotate some of their fullness to the midriff by rotating the dart fullness to the bottom portion of the midriff section, which may curve the midriff out to the sideseam. Once done, make the midriff as one piece where it's attached to the skirt bottom and turn the whole thing into an empire look.

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