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Forum > Fitting Woes > adjusting the bust for simplicity 3833 ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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adjusting the bust for simplicity 3833
I'm making this for a friend with a larger bust
rmusic1
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rmusic1
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Date: 1/25/13 1:23 PM

I have never had to adjust for a larger bust. I'm a B cup myself, and feel extremely grateful that patterns come in this size as standard.

I intend to make a dress with (and for) a friend. The pattern is simplicity 3833. I'm pretty confident about the pattern itself, having made it twice now for me.

My friend is a DD cup size, and I know I am going to have to adjust the pattern to fit her. She lives far away, so when I go to see her there wont be all that much time to do lots of fitting checks. She has a young baby so has to be careful of pins!

I'd like to cut out the fabric before going to see her so it will be easy to sew up there and then. I know toiles are recommended - am happy to make one but still would love advice on where to start! I thought I can post it to her to try on.

The bust shaping on this pattern is unusual, in that it uses both the skirt pattern piece, the seam and a dart (all combined to create a rounded curve.

I'm thinking that I may have to add to the bottom of the bodice piece, add to the side seam/s and make a more curved dart?

Eek! advice from larger busted ladies please? one last thing, I plan to use a stretch corduroy fabric (light weight) which should hopefully make fitting easier.
-- Edited on 1/25/13 1:24 PM --

KLK7
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Date: 1/25/13 2:46 PM

I'm very much a beginner but I do have a similar build. I would think a different fabric than stretch corduroy would be more flattering. It's just not going to look very good as the ribs stretch, rather than skim, over the bust.

rmusic1
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Date: 1/25/13 3:02 PM

thanks for the advice about the corduroy. The fabric I would like to use (for the bodice) is needlecord, so I'm hoping any stretch won't detract from the pretty floral pattern. The main skirt would be out of a plain black corduroy. It isnt needlecord, but then it wont be under the same level of stretch (its an A-lin skirt design).

From my own experience (with a linen/cotton style fabric, and wool) the bodice is fitted, but not stretched over the bust. Having said that, I'm not experienced in full bust adjustments, so if anyone chimes in and wants to set me straight you are more than welcome to!

a photo of my intended fabric can be seen here

LauraTS
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Date: 1/25/13 4:03 PM

Yeah, that seaming will make things interesting. I would treat it as if it were just a french dart, do the FBA based on that, and then add all the seaming back in after you've got the bust fitted. Alternatively, you could find a bodice in cup sizes up to DD, fit that to her, and then add the style lines of the pattern to the basic bodice.

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rmusic1
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Date: 1/25/13 4:38 PM

ok - some more information to add to the mix. I've found two websites which describe different methods to adjust the dart for this dress. Option one and option 2

So do either of these look worth trying for a DD cup size (I dont know if a bigger cup size makes some methods better than others), and which do you think would be the better fitting?

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Date: 1/26/13 8:49 AM

I would make a muslin following each of the methods you posted to see which one fits your friend the best. Kudos to you for helping your friend with this dress - it is such a cute pattern!

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LauraTS
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Date: 1/27/13 3:08 AM

Option 2 looks like it's the "proper" way to do the FBA. Option 1 could work if your friend doesn't need the added width below the bust, or if you're already planned to use a larger size below the bust.

Probably the key thing will be where her bust point is located relative to where it is on the pattern, but that's a hard thing to measure, especially long distance.

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In reply to rmusic1 <<


Date: 1/28/13 9:16 PM

You'll need her measurements to start. Remember that a DD in bra size doesn't necessarily mean she's a DD in the pattern. You need to know her high and full bust measurements to get started. It's kind of a tricky pattern and one I might avoid for that reason. I would personally be more inclined to find something similar but with a more fba friendly bodice.

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rmusic1
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Date: 2/3/13 6:21 AM

ok, I've got some more information about her measurements.

She's told me the followin:

*fullest part of her bust is 38 inches
*under the arms is 36 inches
*shoulder to fullest part of bust is 11 inches
*waist is 38 inches.

The pattern envelope I have goes up to a size 14. The finished bust measurement is 38 1/2 inches.

So from my (slightly hazy) understanding from reading previous advice about FBA's, a 14 is the right starting point as it will fit her shoulders.

Do I then just grade out a bit at the side seams, or do I have to do a slash and spread technique? Am also not quite sure at what point to start grading out at the side seams, so that both the bust and waist fit. The finished waist measurement for a size 14 for this pattern is 36 inches. So I need to add at least 2 1/2 so she has a bit of ease.

Oh, and do I need to lower the dart at all based on the shoulder to bust measurement? Thanks in advance!

NhiHuynh
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Date: 2/3/13 11:53 AM

Since you have her measurements do you have dress form you can quickly pad out to get close to her measurements? I'm thinking put a bra on it and stuff it to size. I would then lay the pattern tissue over it and see how much I needed to added and where.

I also have a few patterns with French darts and cup sizing. I can compare the pattern pieces for you if you'd like. At least you can see how the pattern changes from cup size to cup size.

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