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Forum > Beginner's Forum > Side invisible zipper puckering :( ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Side invisible zipper puckering :(
ysadora
ysadora
Member since 1/11/13
Posts: 16
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Date: 1/25/13 5:57 PM

I have put an invisible zipper in the side seam of an evening gown and it kept puckering when I put it on the girl (it didn't pucker when on the hanger, it would just rumple when I put it on her). Does anyone have any insight into what causes this and how to prevent it? Obviously I want a very snug fit in an evening gown, is it possible to do this with a hidden side zipper? Thanks!

Ps, in case you can't envision what I'm talking about -imagine the zipper is like a snake, and when I put it on her it waves in and out down her body (primarily cutting in to her waist instead of laying smooth).
Changma
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Changma  Friend of PR
New York USA
Member since 2/20/12
Posts: 1083
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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In reply to ysadora

Date: 1/25/13 6:26 PM

I was just watching the Craftsy Couture Dress section about zippers. One thing Susan Khaljie said, besides hand sew it, was that one should sew down one side of the zipper and up the other so the zipper sides would be evenly matched and lie flat. Perhaps that would help.

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I'd much rather have PEACE than pieces...

Scheri
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Scheri
Alberta CANADA
Member since 7/13/10
Posts: 365
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Date: 1/26/13 1:02 AM

You need to stablize the fabric with interfacing then apply the zipper.

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Scheri Manson
Edmonton, AB CANADA

Judy Kski
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Judy Kski  Friend of PR
Florida USA
Member since 10/26/08
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In reply to Scheri

Date: 1/26/13 1:34 AM

I just watched an ASG webinar on Zippers last night and that was one of the tips discussed. Remember that you are sewing on the bias when sewing a zipper into the side seam. Ironing a 1 1/2" to 2" x Length of the zipper (plus 1") strip of fusible interfacing to the wrong side on both front and back zipper area should do the trick.

------
Judy

petro
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petro
France
Member since 6/24/07
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Date: 1/26/13 4:09 AM

A couple of other things may help. Keeping the zip 'stretched' and the fabric 'eased' as it goes in (easier if hand sewing!), and clipping the seam allowances to compensate for the fact that the edge of the fabric is shorter than the fitting line.

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http://patternpandemonium.wordpress.com/

SheBear0320
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SheBear0320  Friend of PR
Manitoba Canada
Member since 4/8/08
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Date: 1/26/13 11:14 AM

Definitely add interfacing to the zipper opening.

------
Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
Stash Tally: net +38.5 yds (2014)
2015 Stash Tally: 106.5 yds out/122.875 yds in (net +16.375 yds)

2016 Stash Busting:
24.125 yds sewn (as of 05/27/16)
9.75 yds purchased (as of 05/27/16)

ysadora
ysadora
Member since 1/11/13
Posts: 16
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Date: 1/26/13 3:55 PM

Thank you all! Ps, its probably more accurate to describe the problem as "buckling" instead of puckering. Does that change any of your advice? Also, in the seam was a layer of eight cotton twill (underlining), 30 mm silk crepe, and then some knife pleated chiffon...so, a lot of fabric in there. Do you still think that interfacing would help the buckling in at the waist?
Pamela R
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Pamela R  Friend of PR
Went to PR Weekend!

Ontario CANADA
Member since 6/22/07
Posts: 1019
Skill: Expert/Couture
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Date: 1/26/13 5:19 PM

Consider a petersham inside belt to take the strain off of the zipper.
Pam
landstromd
landstromd  Friend of PR
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In reply to Changma

Date: 1/29/13 12:10 PM

That is curious, I was taught to sew zippers in the same direction to help eliminate shifting of the sides/seams. When I sew a zipper down and then up the side, it always shifts and I end up redoing. Curious!
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