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Forum > Fitting Woes > FBA for top with armhole dart? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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FBA for top with armhole dart?
Burda 7509
kareninwisconsin

kareninwisconsin  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/26/13 6:58 PM

I thought this bias-cut sleeveless top looked really cute, and easy. It's got bust darts from the armhole.
How would I go about doing a full bust adjustment on a top like this? I'm wearing about a D cup these days.

Fictionfan
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Fictionfan  Friend of PR
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In reply to kareninwisconsin <<
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Date: 1/26/13 8:48 PM

This cami top is cut on the bias, so that armhole dart should be on the cross-grain of the fabric after you cut the pieces. That doesn't really matter for your FBA except to explain why they put the dart there and not as a side bust dart. Darts that are on the bias could be distorted because the fabric will stretch along the bias. Basically, you do a regular FBA, but instead of adding a side bust dart, the extra all goes into that armhole dart. I am going to assume that you have done FBAs where you've added a side bust dart with the method described by PP in FFRP or in their DVD Full Busted. Essentially, you are rotating that side bust dart to the armhole, keeping the side seam as it is drafted unless you need to add length or width for some other reason.

So, as you would do any FBA, find the bust point. Mark your landmarks from the shoulder seamline through the bust point to the hem for one line, to the armhole (should go through that armhole dart) for another line, and to the side seam for the last line. Cut from the hem toward the shoulder through the bust point. This is the line where you will add the width that you need from the bust point to the waist and hem, with a small wedge toward the shoulder if you need it for larger cup sizes. If you don't need it, you don't cut from hem through bust point to shoulder, just from hem to bust point. Normally, you would cut from the bust point to the armhole seamline, and from the side seam to but not through the bust point. The armhole seamline anchors the FBA and the bust point is the hinge. Instead, cut from the armhole to but not through the bust point. This is the dart you are going to widen and the bust point is the hinge. Cut from the bust point to the side seam perpendicular to the line you've made from hem to shoulder. The side seam will be the anchor for your adjustments instead of the armhole seam line. Move the parts to make your FBA, should be maybe a half inch, could be up to an inch. The last thing to adjust is the center front length below the bust line.

I believe burda drafts for a C-cup, but with the bias cut, I'd err on the side of being more generous because the garment will tend to get longer and narrower with forces of stress. (This is why you should use wider seam allowances when you cut a bias garment; it gives you room to adjust the width if you lose some with handling.)

I hope that is clear. I can't do that drawing thing that some people seem to do so easily.

HTH

------
Fictionfan

kareninwisconsin

kareninwisconsin  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/26/13 10:48 PM

Thanks! Sounds good. Don't worry, I'm tracing the pattern and trying it out on some really cheap fabric first.

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