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Forum > Beginner's Forum > Figuring out inseam...outseam & letting out hems ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Figuring out inseam...outseam & letting out hems
don't know what I am doing
Pamlyn
Pamlyn  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/29/13 3:55 PM

Hi! I have a family member that has asked me to let the hem out on some slacks. She measured her outseam, from top of waistband (at side seam) to bottom of the pant leg and got a measurement of 40 3/4".

She did not want to give me an inseam measurement because the slacks' crotches fall at different places. I feel silly asking this, but when this happens does it make the inseam different?

The second question I have is: some of the slacks are cuffed and have like 1" or less hem to let out, and I need an entire inch let out..leaving me no hem/seam allowance. Is there a method to use that would allow me to retain the cuff and get the required length?

The third question I have is: one pair of slacks is not cuffed and has enough hem to let out, but it will leave a tiny hem, which is not going to look so great imo. (they are dress slacks) What is best method to lengthen these?

I haven't done many alterations so I am clueless here, but I want to help her out.

Thank you so much for any suggestions!

maryc230
maryc230
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Date: 1/29/13 4:50 PM

I just came upon this question and could not see that anyone had posted an answer yet. I'm not an expert, but I think a really experienced alteration person would ask for more information about clearly defining crotch vs. crotches. Maybe you mean the center front seam and the center back seam. These two seams must joint at the top of the inseams (the right inseam and the left inseam). If a person's two legs are not identical in length or
bone structure, then the inseams can certainly require a separate fitting to make the hemline of each leg even from the floor. Nothing I know works better than marking the pants while they are worn by the person who will wear them. (And in the shoes to be worn.) I'll read the part about cuffs again in a minute.

Marie367
Marie367
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Ohio USA
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In reply to Pamlyn <<


Date: 1/29/13 5:22 PM

I am not sure that going by the outseam (Side seam) is going to make a consistent hemline. I find that different types of pants fit differently on the waist (or below the waist). I would think you would need the person to try on each pair of pants. Some types of material make it difficult to let a seam out because you have a pressing line on the fabric from the original hem that you cannot press out or wash out. To get the most out of hem, you could sew on some type of hem tape in a matching color which will give you about an inch to turn up. HTH

Pamlyn
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Date: 1/30/13 11:46 PM

Thanks Mary and Marie for your replies.

I let the hem out on all 3 pairs of slacks, she didn't mind that the cuffs could not be retained on 2 of the pairs. On the remaining pair I used hem tape. We will see how they fit when she gets back into town. (crossing fingers, ha!)

If nothing else this was good experience!

Marie367
Marie367
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Ohio USA
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In reply to Pamlyn <<


Date: 1/31/13 5:15 PM

You are welcome Pamlyn. Hopefully they will be fine.
Marie

solosmocker
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Date: 2/1/13 4:19 PM

The crotch length varies depending on the style of pants. The crotch on a full trouser hangs lower than the crotch on a skinny jean. So if someone tells you to do a specific measurement for the inseam, the hem could easily be off. The best way is trying them on.

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SandiMacD
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Date: 2/27/13 6:16 AM

Using the outer seam is not the best. When tried on in front of am alteration person, the marks are made in the center fold in the back and front- not at the seam lines. And they are made using either flats or heels as that affects the hem.
If there is no pant crease and you must work off seam measurements that she gives you then ask her to mark or pin one leg on each pant. Every pant waist and crotch is different as you discovered. She needs to place the mark or take the measurement for the outside seam AND the inside seam on each pant. Otherwise it is just a guessing game.

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sewing brings joy and meaning to my life...

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 2/27/13 2:28 PM

All this inseam measurement was and still is used by tailors for men's suit pants as most, if not all where held up with spenders.

For modern trousers (not spendered suit pants) that sit at the waist or below the waist, use the outside seam measurement.

------
"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

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