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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Cutting Layout

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Cutting Layout
Changing the suggested cutting layout for a Crossover Neckline
Schoschetta
Schoschetta
Member since 6/1/12
Posts: 1
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Date: 1/30/13 2:49 PM

I am about to cut the fabric for the dress New Look 6123 View B (which is the crossover neckline) and I was wondering about the suggested cutting layout. It is suggested to cut the fabric so that the neckline lies on the bias. I did a sewing class some time ago and I did dress New Look 6774 which has the same neckline. I remember the teacher showing me to turn the front bodice parts by 45 degrees so that I don't have the neckline on the bias as she said I probably don't want to have a lot of stretch right at the cleavage.
Does anyone have any thoughts about that? If I should turn, which way should I turn?
Thanks you very much for your help!

marjoriekh
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marjoriekh  Friend of PR
Intermediate
VA USA
Member since 8/28/10
Posts: 550
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Date: 1/31/13 9:30 AM

If you turn your pattern piece 45 degrees to avoid bias at the neckline, you will then have the bias (or near bias) at the side and waist seams, I think. You could then stabilize those seamlines, but there still might be some lengthwise stretching over time to the front bodice overall, since it would be hanging on the bias.

If I were concerned about the bias neckline, I would instead just stabilize the neckline immediately after cutting (before it has any chance to stretch out), preferably with fusible tape or strips of lightweight fusible interfacing, and leave the lengthwise grain of the bodice running up and down the body.

In fact, any bodice with this style of neckline will do best with that neckline stabilized immediately after cutting, I think. (There's also a thread around here somewhere about what to do if yours gets stretched out, and you want to fix it.)

------
marjoriekh

tinflutterby
tinflutterby  Friend of PR
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CA USA
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Posts: 273
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Date: 2/1/13 11:56 AM

I usually ease this area when I stay it so that it cups in some. Since I'm going to add a stay anyway the bias isn't a problem. I agree that I think I want the straight on the length of the dress to keep that from sagging.

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