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Message Board > Plus Size Sewing > Bust Dart placement for plus size bodies ( Moderated by JEF)

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Bust Dart placement for plus size bodies
Seabreeeze
Seabreeeze
Advanced Beginner
AUSTRALIA
Member since 11/13/10
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Date: 2/1/13 8:56 PM

Hello,
I have probably not titles this correctly but I was wondering if your journey of sewing for the fuller body, have you notice one particular bust dart placement to be better, look better and help with the fall/flow of the garment.??

I am making pattern Simplicity 2599 for my elderly Mother and is short and rounded. I am using the D cup size pattern but when looking at the darts, I am tempted to move them to the arm hole darts as I have had alot of success with that sort dart.

I am curious to see if any of you sewers have a favourite position ?

Thanks

------
Darwin NT
Australia
********


sewsally
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sewsally  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/2/13 12:00 PM

I don't think armhole darts are all that attractive and they point down.

How about a princess seam pattern.

JeanM

JeanM
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VA USA
Member since 6/25/05
Posts: 159
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In reply to Seabreeeze <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 2/2/13 8:36 PM

I think it depends on the individual body shape; what works on one person may not work on the next because each person is shaped differently. I tried a Silhouette pattern (Dana's Top) and was surprised at how well the darts coming from the side waist worked (french darts?) for me. I've read about splitting large darts into 2, but haven't tried that method. A single large dart coming from the side seam a couple inches below the armsceye doesn't always work well.

I don't think there is a "standard" - Try both and see what works better for you, with the pattern you are using, and let us know what you find out....

a7yrstitch
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In reply to Seabreeeze <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 2/2/13 9:38 PM

Oh dear! I meant that post to be a pm. Still glad we were able to share a chuckle.
-- Edited on 2/3/13 11:08 AM --

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

a7yrstitch
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In reply to Seabreeeze <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 2/2/13 9:43 PM

I created darts from the shoulder seam down the front for my grandmother. Handled the upper back with a combination of alteration, easing and the addition of a smaller darts.

------
I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

Seabreeeze
Seabreeeze
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Member since 11/13/10
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In reply to a7yrstitch <<


Date: 2/3/13 7:16 AM

Thanks everyone,

I going to go with with the D cup side dart placement in the toil which I am hoping Mum will be able to wear and then I think I will try to change it to the armhole position.

My reasoning for going armhole is that I being a big busted lady, alway found that the under the arm bust never sat right on me and one day I got this pattern, it was a Simplicity with a sundress - sleeveless and the dart came from the armhole area. Not only was it easy to sew.. quicker and no worries about shaping, it sat nicely on body and the rest of the garment fell nicely down over my fat belly.. The dress was stripped so the darting in the shoulder area sort of keep the strips nice in the body of the dress.

Mum is 83 and will not wear a proper bra these days, I have her in those wonder bras.. over the head sport bra. So the sisterhood are held up but not alert or as structural as if in a foundation bra. I am making Simplicity 2599. I probably going to too much trouble with the fitting but once I have it fitted nicely on her, it will be my shell for other garments for her..

A7yrstitch, heheh had me laughing.. I tend to type faster than what I think and leave words out.. I was frighten I had done it again!!!! . thanks its been a long day here today with Mum. I have done the tucks from a forward front shoulder seam and that worked well, so I could not see why a shoulder dart would not work..

Will let you know how I get on.. thanks everyone.. I have had to do considerable alterations to the pattern to get it to fit her but the pattern has so many alternatives to make up up that it will be ideal for her to wear to her days at the Granny Day Care facility she goes to three times a week. Wjth her dementia, she has not taken any interest in clothing, I buy and lay it out but since I picked the fabric and went through my stash and got her to look at them, she is showing some interest, so I going to try to run with it.
-- Edited on 2/3/13 7:18 AM --

------
Darwin NT
Australia
********


KathySews
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KathySews  Friend of PR
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 2/3/13 11:02 AM

Cute top. I need larger side darts and started doing a series of 2 or 3 small pleats on the side instead of sewing the dart. On knits it looks great but I have not tried it on a woven. If she is playing with when/if to wear a bra, I have also eased the dart into the side with good success. Either way my goal was to provide bust space without a dart line.

A patterned fabric hides these methods well.
-- Edited on 2/3/13 11:09 AM --

Quickie
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Quickie
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Date: 2/4/13 3:06 AM

I a gree with kathysews and What about gathers on the shoulders, and /or gathers in the centre front

Quickie
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Quickie
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Date: 2/4/13 3:06 AM

I a gree with kathysews and What about gathers on the shoulders, and /or gathers in the centre front

KathySews
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Date: 3/1/13 5:38 AM

Another thought in case you look for other patterns. I prefer shoulder princess lines. It is much easier to change the bust line including dropping the bust point if necessary. It also avoids that difficult side dart. I struggle with getting that dart to look right.

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