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Message Board > Fitting Woes > French Dart-what does this wrinkle mean? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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French Dart-what does this wrinkle mean?
PattiinATL
PattiinATL  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
GA USA
Member since 5/9/08
Posts: 40
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Date: 2/3/13 12:08 PM

Hi, hoping someone better versed in french darts can help me. I just made my first muslin with a french dart, but I ended up with some diagonal wrinkles parallel to the french dart. It's similar to what you can see in this still shot of a Peggy Sagers webcast.

Is this the way french darts are supposed to look? Is my dart too small, or my circumference around the hip? Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Patti
PS: I keep trying to link to this but the link is broken. If you copy and paste it, it should work: (sorry about the inconvenience)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77311013@N08/8440863445/in/photostream



-- Edited on 2/3/13 12:09 PM --
-- Edited on 2/3/13 12:11 PM --

Debbie Lancaster
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Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 9/18/02
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Date: 2/3/13 12:41 PM

Wrinkle

The wrinkle means you don't have enough fabric across the bust. A full-bust adjustment is required.

------
Debbie

PattiinATL
PattiinATL  Friend of PR
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GA USA
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Date: 2/3/13 12:43 PM

okay, this particular pattern has individual cup sizes, so I guess if I go from a C cup to a D cup, it'll work. thanks so much!

clothingengineer
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clothingengineer  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/3/13 4:18 PM

Do you have the same wrinkles in the back? I wonder if your shoulders are more sloped than the pattern is drafted for.

------
-- Anne

PattiinATL
PattiinATL  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/3/13 7:06 PM

No, they're just in the front, which made me think maybe I did something wrong when sewing the darts

mkhpaintsew
mkhpaintsew  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/4/13 10:41 AM

If you have plenty of circumference or fabric going around, I would say you need a bigger cup size on your pattern. You need it to eliminate more length on the side seam. The top doesn't seem to be pulling horizontally in the bust area, so I would say it's a depth issue instead.

MarthaMcKeon
MarthaMcKeon
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Date: 2/12/13 5:46 AM

You need more length, not width. A horizontal wrinkle indicates lack of width, a vertical wrinkle indicates lack of length.

Try lengthening the front on the shorten/lengthen line, or about 2 inches about the waist. Start with about 1/2" and see if that wrinkle drops the grain and is smoother.

MarthaMcKeon
MarthaMcKeon
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Member since 5/26/05
Posts: 235
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Date: 2/12/13 5:46 AM

You need more length, not width. A horizontal wrinkle indicates lack of width, a vertical wrinkle indicates lack of length.

Try lengthening the front on the shorten/lengthen line, or about 2 inches about the waist. Start with about 1/2" and see if that wrinkle drops the grain and is smoother.
-- Edited on 2/12/13 5:46 AM --

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