SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Platinum Sponsor
PatternReview.com
PatternReview.com

Forum > Beginner's Forum > Sewing collars with stiff fabrics ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Sewing collars with stiff fabrics
Traiven3d
Traiven3d
Beginner
Ontario CANADA
Member since 5/2/11
Posts: 36
Send Message

      



Date: 2/4/13 10:53 PM

Hello again!

Well I've started into a new project as my sisters vest is all done! I hope to post some pictures of her in it soon. My new project is a collared shirt for myself. I duplicated the pattern from an existing shirt, and all the pieces are cut... only to realize that my fabric is not 100% cotton, but a cotton/polyester blend.

I'm totally comfortable with having this fabric for a shirt, however I'm unsure of how to adapt sewing methods to have it come out right.

This is my first button-down shirt, so I'm new to the techniques required. One of the first I've been told to practice (care of David Coffin's 'Shirtmaking') is sewing an eased collar, stretching one piece of fabric while sewing the other flat so that it naturally wants to curve. This fabric refuses to stretch, at best it shears and skews, but it doesn't want to stretch on either the weft or warp.

Should I just sew the collar and try to press the curve into it? Can I use the interfacing to my advantage, or perhaps use a piece of thin cotton as the interfacing and stretch it as I sew it to one collar piece to get the curve?

Thanks everyone! I can't tell you how much I've appreciated all the feedback I've received from everyone on here. :)

------
http://sewstrong.wordpress.com/

arianamaniacs
starstarstarstar
arianamaniacs  Friend of PR
Advanced
Member since 6/11/04
Posts: 1314
Send Message

      



Date: 2/5/13 3:08 AM

Ive sewn several shirts using his book. However Ive not done the stretching part yet. I sew my collars the same size and iron. They turn out fine. Good luck!

------
Halloween is coming

mportuesisf
star
mportuesisf
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 1/8/12
Posts: 94
Send Message

      



In reply to Traiven3d <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 2/9/13 0:22 AM

I just finished my first button-down shirt. Like you, it was from cotton-poly (a thrift store bedsheet). I also have David Coffin's Shirtmaking book, and I didn't stretch out the fabric when I sewed the collar. It turned out fine.

I will probably try the stretch-while-sewing trick on a future shirt just to see how it turns out, though.

Two notes:

1) I signed up for the class "The Custom-Tailored Shirt" on craftsy.com. It was well worth the money spent. (Craftsy classes are offered on sale a lot. Sign up for one of their free classes and wait for them to send you a discount email).

2) I documented my experience with the shirt pretty extensively on my blog, so I invite you to check it out (see my sig). My biggest challenge was attaching collars and cuffs to the body of the shirt and getting the stitching done precisely.

------
http://lineofselvage.jotabout.com

clothingengineer
starstarstarstar
clothingengineer  Friend of PR
Advanced
Member since 5/7/10
Posts: 517
online now
Send Message

      
thumbsup 3 members like this.



Date: 2/9/13 8:07 AM

All of my Marfy patterns are drafted so the undercollar piece have a generous 1/8" or scant 1/4" trimmed off the collar edge. When I sew them just ease in the upper collar to the under collar (as if I am sewing in something like a sleeve cap) and I get that nice curve. For a long time I made them the same size but I find they come out better when I trim. I usually interface both collar pieces because the fabric stretch is more controlled that way. If I want a slightly less stiff collar I will interface the upper one with the usual shirt interfacing and the lower one with Pro-Sheer from Fashion Sewing Supply.

------
-- Anne
clothingengineer.com

MNBarb
starstarstarstar
MNBarb  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Minnesota USA
Member since 4/3/10
Posts: 1540
Send Message

      



In reply to mportuesisf <<
thumbsup 2 members like this.


Date: 2/10/13 7:05 AM

Quote:
I just finished my first button-down shirt.


Really nice work you're doing. Shirt details must be precise since all of the difficult parts are up front where everyone can see them. It's obvious you took your time on attaching the collar band.

Now you can go buy yourself some nice shirting fabric and go to the next level.

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

mportuesisf
star
mportuesisf
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 1/8/12
Posts: 94
Send Message

      



In reply to MNBarb <<


Date: 2/10/13 1:36 PM

Quote:

Really nice work you're doing. Shirt details must be precise since all of the difficult parts are up front where everyone can see them.


Thank you so much for the compliments! I am thinking about cutting some sample collar/cuff pieces from scrap fabric to practice stitching details and attachment, like David Coffin suggests in his book.

I also deliberately cut the underside collar piece 1/8 smaller in all dimensions except for the edge that seams to the shirt body. In the Craftsy class, Pam Howard says this helps to ensure the people-facing edge of the collar "turns cloth" and doesn't expose the underside seam.

Quote:

Now you can go buy yourself some nice shirting fabric and go to the next level.


I got a batch of really nice shirting fabric on sale from Michael's Fabrics online, which I'm ready to start cutting into (after a few pattern alterations).

------
http://lineofselvage.jotabout.com

AdaH
star
AdaH  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Iowa USA
Member since 11/21/09
Posts: 2484
Send Message

      



In reply to mportuesisf <<


Date: 2/10/13 2:08 PM

Pam Howard's class is very good. She goes step by step and you can see what her hands are doing and how she moves the fabric while sewing.

------
Ada

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Beginner's Forum >> Sewing collars with stiff fabrics

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Online Class
Sew a Designer Unlined Jacket
Sew a Designer Unlined Jacket

Class Details

Online Class
Beginners Guide to Dyeing Fabrics
Beginners Guide to Dyeing Fabrics

Class Details

ZIPPERS - A downloadable Book by Shannon Gifford

ZIPPERS - A downloadable Book by Shannon Gifford

More Info
Islander Sewing Systems The Ultimate Kinsale Cloak Pattern

Islander Sewing Systems The Ultimate Kinsale Cloak Pattern

More Info

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.