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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > fittng bust properly on sewing pattern

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fittng bust properly on sewing pattern
sewgirl4
sewgirl4
Member since 1/18/13
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Date: 2/5/13 2:25 PM

my upper bust is 35 inches . my bust measures 42 inches. how do i adjust my pattern to fit my bust?

wenznz
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wenznz  Friend of PR
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NEW ZEALAND
Member since 7/8/11
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Date: 2/5/13 4:18 PM

You are going to need to do a FBA (full bust adjustment). There are loads of great tutorials available depending on your pattern.

There is a fairly decent list of tutorials here that should get you off to a good start.

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Wendy
Wellington, New Zealand

Fictionfan
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Date: 2/5/13 4:34 PM

Welcome to PR. You don't indicate where you are or what your sewing skill is, but I'm guessing you are a beginner based on the question.

This is a huge topic, not something you will be able to pick up just from a reply or two on these boards. Patterns generally are drafted for B-cup, so you will need to learn how to do a full bust adjustment (FBA). There are several ways of doing FBAs. Partly depends on how the pattern is designed: darted, princess seams, shirring or pleating, seams in strategic places, etc. Also, whether the pattern was designed for knits or wovens can make a difference for how much FBA and how to approach it.

From the knowledge base, this link to a closed topic will get you started. The list was complied in 2006. Full Bust Alterations.
I don't know if all of the links in that thread still work. You can also check out the other information on fitting in the knowledge base.

There is a DVD from Palmer Pletsch called Full Busted. I highly recommend it for anyone who has a larger-than-B-cup. I think you can order it through PR (Shop Patterns and More tab), directly through Palmer&Pletsch, and probably through online books/DVD sources. Well worth the cost, IMO. nayy.

General sewing books, fitting books, online tutorials, how-to videos and DVDs abound. Fit For Real People is the most commonly suggested fitting book though others are useful, too. I am taking a craftsy.com course called Sew the Perfect Fit that gives a fairly common sense approach, but it involves making a muslin or a practice garment of inexpensive fabric, then chopping into it where ever needed to make something fit. Sarah Veblen has a book that has great reviews called The Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting, which focuses on maintaining horizontal balance lines to get the pattern to fit.

There are patterns now that have different bodice parts for A/B, C, or D-cup sizes. Your measurements suggest a G-cup. Starting with a multi-cup sized pattern will at least get you started with a large cup size, and the differences between the smaller cups and larger cups will give you a hint for how to proceed.

It is so worth learning this alteration. Having clothes that fit is part of what makes sewing so much fun.

Good luck!

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Fictionfan

cocosloft
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Date: 2/6/13 11:14 AM

I love the book Fit for Real People! Covers fit adjustments for all kinds of bods. You might try it out!

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Coco

PattiAnnJ
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PattiAnnJ
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Ohio USA
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Date: 2/6/13 11:24 AM

I also think this book, Fit For Real People would be an invaluable book to have in any seamstress's library.

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I dont give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think its Hell. Harry Truman

"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

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