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Forum > Fitting Woes > Help with fitting pants... in the rear region ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Help with fitting pants... in the rear region
thegreenviolet
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thegreenviolet
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Date: 2/6/13 4:53 PM

Just finished up my first pants ever- a (wearable?) muslin of the Colette Clovers. I increased the crotch depth in the front based on Sunni at a Fashionable Stitch's tutorial and I think it really helped the front (you should see the before picture). However, I'm not going to lie, I totally avoided dealing with the backside issues. I've never had a pair of pants that look good on my butt and I was doubtful that it would be achievable. So I gave up before I even got started. Kinda lame, but hopefully I can tackle that on my next iteration, maybe with help from some of ya'll??? I'm open to suggestions on the front also!

Finished Front :


Finished Back (shield your eyes):



I typically have the lines pointing towards my back crotch (is that the right term?) under my butt. This is a problem in almost all my pants. Fortunately, I can't see my backside very often, so its easy to ignore. I also have some criss-crossing lines on the back of the thighs. This fabric is very lightweight and that may be part of the problem. Also, I do apologize for how dark the fabric is. I hope you can tell what is going on. More photos on My Blog, if you are so inclined.

P.S. Not sure what I'm doing wrong with the photos here??
-- Edited on 2/6/13 4:55 PM --
-- Edited on 2/6/13 4:59 PM --

Fictionfan
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Date: 2/6/13 5:27 PM

Looks to me like the next place to alter is the front thigh. The back actually doesn't look too bad. Those pulling lines are pointing fairly evenly to the side seams and inseams, indicating that there isn't enough fabric to go around, and the side shot shows a lot of lines pointing at your front thigh. Check out the athletic thigh alteration The Sewing Divas had a few years ago (personally, I prefer the term athletic thigh to full thigh). If you do the front crotch alteration you've already made and widen the front thigh where you need it, I think the back problems will mostly disappear.

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Fictionfan

thegreenviolet
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thegreenviolet
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Date: 2/6/13 5:40 PM

Thanks for the advice and the link to the tutorial! It looks fairly straightforward and my thighs do bulge quite a bit in the front. I think i've been wearing poorly fitting pants for sooooo long that I don't even know what is wrong with them anymore, just that they don't look good!

So, if i understand correctly, adding a little width to the front thigh will give the pants a little room to stand away from the back of my thigh, thus removing the wrinkles? I think that actually makes sense to me, if I think about it long enough. The 3-D logistics of sewing are still a bit baffling to me.

MNBarb
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Date: 2/7/13 8:14 PM

Well. first of all thanks for showing me that there's a new Barbara Kingsolver book.

About the pants...
I'm looking at Pants and Skirts: Fit For Your Shape by Jan Minott.
She shows a sketch that looks like your pants. Here's what she says.
Problem: Pants legs fall against or pull from the inside of the leg.
Cause: the legs, knees, or thighs are close together. Many heart and diamond shapes have this problem because the hips are wide from side to side.

In the garment, let the inseams out and take in the outseams. Repostition the pants legs in the pattern. Straighten the upper inseam curves.

Here's a visual of what she's talking about
Debbie Cook's blog, full inner thigh pattern adjustment

You've done such a nice job of seam finishing. When you get the fit thing worked out you will be able to make some killer pants!

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

Fictionfan
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In reply to MNBarb <<


Date: 2/7/13 10:56 PM

Barb,
Those are good thoughts. Any of Debbie Cook's tutorials are helpful, so that's a great link to provide. However, I think you might have missed the full picture. I also thought at first glance that she needed a full inner thigh adjustment, but those pull lines are also pointing fairly evenly and equally to the outseam and pointing both up and down toward each seam. On the side view (see her review photo), it's clear that the front thigh is the main problem. There isn't enough fabric for her full front thighs, so the back is strained. If she cut down the center front and let the fabric open up, I think the back would be a lot more comfortable. She may also need an inner thigh adjustment +/or a contouring of the outseam, but the full front thigh has to be dealt with before those possibilities can be assessed.

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Fictionfan

Fictionfan
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In reply to thegreenviolet <<


Date: 2/7/13 11:06 PM

BTW, I was looking at your photos and noticed your pattern alterations. Great job! I have a suggestion for altering patterns to help maintain grainlines and accurately add or subtract width or length:
Mark a couple or more lines perpendicular to the cut you plan to make. Then, when you add or overlap, you can make sure that the lines are straight and in alignment. With something like a straight rectangle piece, the lines for checking may not really be needed, though they do help. If you are making a FBA or altering a non-rectangular pattern piece, the orientation lines can make a huge difference.

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Fictionfan

thegreenviolet
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Date: 2/8/13 12:09 PM

Thanks so much for all the advice! Very helpful, I'm such a beginner here and I think that sometimes I'm jumping into things a little fast and missing some of the details. All tips are much appreciated! I'm going to (hopefully) make up a denim version of these pants this weekend and so i'll see which alterations I can incorporate and perhaps post another image or two of the next version- whenever I get it done! I'm sure this is going to take a few iterations before I get it right... but at least I'm learning a ton about fit and alterations during the process!

thegreenviolet
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thegreenviolet
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In reply to MNBarb <<


Date: 2/8/13 12:12 PM

Barb- haven't gotten too far into the new Barabara Kingsolver book yet (too much sewing to do), but its promising to be an interesting read and hopefully a return to her earlier style. She did a really interesting interview on the Diane Rehm show about it.

clothingengineer
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Date: 2/8/13 2:28 PM

Can you let out the inseam from crotch to about mid-thigh level, and see if that helps? Looking at the front I think the fabric is getting hung up at the upper inner thigh and that's what is causing the wrinkles all around the leg.

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-- Anne
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Fictionfan
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In reply to thegreenviolet <<


Date: 2/8/13 3:20 PM

I don't think you are going too fast! You are making garments that fit you better than you can buy, so even if you aren't following some textbook recommendation or Home Ec curriculum for learning how to sew, you are accomplishing an amazing amount where it really matters: what you want to wear. Recognizing how to fit yourself is the stage where you move from beginner/advanced beginner to intermediate, and pants fitting is a huge, huge challenge for most people. There are many people who never get a good fit or who don't bother with the struggle to make a good fitting pair of pants. Maybe they are able to find what they need in stores? From what I see around me, most people don't find pants that actually fit.

------
Fictionfan

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