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Forum > Fitting Woes > Pivot and slide alterations ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Pivot and slide alterations
? about Nancy Zieman's methods
marymary86
marymary86
Intermediate
Georgia USA
Member since 7/20/08
Posts: 3151
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Date: 2/16/13 8:32 PM

I'm using her book "The Busy Woman's Fitting Guide". It's easy to follow and I'm happy with my progress so far.

My question - she has you measure your body and then tells you to add a certain amount for ease.

Do you use the same amount of ease if you are fitting a knit garment instead of a woven? If not, is there a ratio you should use (1/2 the ease for example?)

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Mary


marymary86
marymary86
Intermediate
Georgia USA
Member since 7/20/08
Posts: 3151
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Date: 2/16/13 9:02 PM

I think I found my answer!

Quote:
If you want the pattern to fit the way the designer intended, you'll need to include the same amount of ease. Calculate the ease intended for the garment style by measuring the pattern from side seam to side seam across the front and back at the bust and hip, then compare the total measurement with that on the back of the pattern envelope for the size you're using. For example, if your pattern measures 34-1/2 in. at the bust, and the measurement for that size is 32-1/2 in., the pattern includes 2 in. of ease. So you'll add 2 in. of ease to your full bust measurement, then add to the side seams to produce that measurement. If you need to lengthen or shorten the body, sleeve, or armhole, make these changes now. To learn more about a new pattern, I find it helpful to compare it to a favorite one with a similar amount of ease.


That came from the Threads site right here ....

It makes perfect sense to me.

How did we live without the Internet and search engines?

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Mary


patterncutter
patterncutter
Advanced
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 2/21/13
Posts: 3
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Date: 2/21/13 10:01 AM

Hi there!
You need "ease" for woven fabrics - otherwise you would not be able to move.
Normally, you have about 2 inches in total around bust, waist and hip.
For stretch wear, you will not need so much ease - how much, will depend on the "stretchability" of the fabric.
For lycra/spandex fabric (the material used for leggings used by sports people), you would not have any ease, you might even be below your body measurements.
I do not know what kind of fabric you have, I would probably use about 1 inch less in total!
I hope this helps!
The Pattern Cutter

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The Pattern Cutter

PattiAnnJ
star
PattiAnnJ
Advanced
USA
Member since 12/3/06
Posts: 7382
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Date: 2/21/13 10:58 AM

Here is one chart for adding ease.

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"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

couturemom
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couturemom
Advanced
North Carolina USA
Member since 7/19/11
Posts: 112
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Date: 2/21/13 12:49 PM

If you want a close-fitting top in a stretchy fabric, you'll need 'negative' ease. You can compare some of your RTW tops with your body measurements and see what your preference is.

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