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Full bust adjustment on faux-wrap empire waist top
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HarrietHomeowner

HarrietHomeowner  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/17/13 9:41 PM

I made a pattern from a knit top I like that has a faux-wrap front. It fits me well everywhere except that I could use more length across the bust. The pattern has four pieces: top front, top back, bottom front and back (it is the same), and sleeve. The top front right and left are the same; the pattern piece forms kind of a triangle, with the points overlapping at the waist (just a simple, basic cross-front kind of thing, which I'm probably not explaining very well).

I tried just adding a couple of inches at the bottom of the front and back pieces, but my tryout version was in a cheap knit that stretched way out of shape, so it was hard to tell if that worked. Is there a usual way to do a FBA on this type of style?

Sorry, I don't have a picture. I can't find anything similar. It's somewhat like Jalie 2910, except it has an empire waist seam.

tinflutterby
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Date: 2/18/13 0:14 AM

A quick and simple full bust on this type bodice is to curve the bottom of the front bodice. It doesn't change the side length at all. I usually need a bit more center front coverage as well so I add a 1/2inch or so to the front neck starting form nothing at the shoulder. Ease this seam onto a stay across the bust so it curves into the cleavage. Last of all try on the bodice before you sew it onto the skirt. I always need to fiddle with the fit across the bust/neckline. I don't expect this would work for a bigger bust but it does on my E cup.

diane s
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Date: 2/21/13 1:32 PM

If you have enough width in the bust, adding length to the bottom will work. If the back has an empire seam, you need to match them. You don't have to lenghten the back as much, you can taper the back down to match the front.
Instead of adding at the bottom, you could also draw a lengthen/shorten line under the armscye and above the empire seam, slash and add extra length.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

marymary86
marymary86
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In reply to tinflutterby <<


Date: 2/21/13 2:10 PM

That's a great suggestion!

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Mary


HarrietHomeowner

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Date: 2/22/13 8:49 AM

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm wearing the original top right now, and I can see that the waist seam falls in the right place in back but is almost halfway up my breasts in front. The fabric has a pattern that obscures this, so I can wear the top but it's not ideal. I like it because it fits well in the shoulders and the lines are flattering, plus the fabric is nice.

I don't need extra width, just length. In fact, I took 1/2" out of the neckline (the diagonal edge) of the original top by sewing some tucks along the edge, a change I included in the pattern by taking a wedge out. Do I need to add a dart, perhaps, and just do a regular FBA? If so, how do I decide how much to increase? I wear a C cup bra (possibly D -- another story, but basically my band size is 39, so it's either wear a 38D, which feels way too tight, or a 40C, which is what I've been doing).

diane s
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Date: 2/23/13 10:15 AM

A fba will give you more width and a little length. After I do a fba in an empire, I still have to add length.
You can lower the back seam to match the front, or leave it as is, and taper it match the front.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

Nancy K
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In reply to HarrietHomeowner <<


Date: 2/23/13 2:36 PM

You can slice across the front at bust level, adding a slight curve to the outside edges on each side. Then ease the front to the back when you sew the side seams. This works nicely and you would line up the two front pattern pieces to draw the line in the same place. If that is still not enough extra length you can curve the bottom as well.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

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