Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Full bust adjustment on faux-wrap empire waist top

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Full bust adjustment on faux-wrap empire waist top
Copied from RTW
HarrietHomeowner

HarrietHomeowner  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 1/13/10
Posts: 782
Login to reply to this post

Date: 2/17/13 9:41 PM

I made a pattern from a knit top I like that has a faux-wrap front. It fits me well everywhere except that I could use more length across the bust. The pattern has four pieces: top front, top back, bottom front and back (it is the same), and sleeve. The top front right and left are the same; the pattern piece forms kind of a triangle, with the points overlapping at the waist (just a simple, basic cross-front kind of thing, which I'm probably not explaining very well).

I tried just adding a couple of inches at the bottom of the front and back pieces, but my tryout version was in a cheap knit that stretched way out of shape, so it was hard to tell if that worked. Is there a usual way to do a FBA on this type of style?

Sorry, I don't have a picture. I can't find anything similar. It's somewhat like Jalie 2910, except it has an empire waist seam.

tinflutterby
tinflutterby  Friend of PR
Advanced
CA USA
Member since 8/9/11
Posts: 273
Login to reply to this post

Date: 2/18/13 0:14 AM

A quick and simple full bust on this type bodice is to curve the bottom of the front bodice. It doesn't change the side length at all. I usually need a bit more center front coverage as well so I add a 1/2inch or so to the front neck starting form nothing at the shoulder. Ease this seam onto a stay across the bust so it curves into the cleavage. Last of all try on the bodice before you sew it onto the skirt. I always need to fiddle with the fit across the bust/neckline. I don't expect this would work for a bigger bust but it does on my E cup.

diane s
star
diane s  Friend of PR
Intermediate
OR USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 4527
Login to reply to this post

Date: 2/21/13 1:32 PM

If you have enough width in the bust, adding length to the bottom will work. If the back has an empire seam, you need to match them. You don't have to lenghten the back as much, you can taper the back down to match the front.
Instead of adding at the bottom, you could also draw a lengthen/shorten line under the armscye and above the empire seam, slash and add extra length.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

marymary86
marymary86
Intermediate
GA USA
Member since 7/20/08
Posts: 2585
Login to reply to this post

In reply to tinflutterby <<


Date: 2/21/13 2:10 PM

That's a great suggestion!

------
Mary


HarrietHomeowner

HarrietHomeowner  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 1/13/10
Posts: 782
Login to reply to this post

Date: 2/22/13 8:49 AM

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm wearing the original top right now, and I can see that the waist seam falls in the right place in back but is almost halfway up my breasts in front. The fabric has a pattern that obscures this, so I can wear the top but it's not ideal. I like it because it fits well in the shoulders and the lines are flattering, plus the fabric is nice.

I don't need extra width, just length. In fact, I took 1/2" out of the neckline (the diagonal edge) of the original top by sewing some tucks along the edge, a change I included in the pattern by taking a wedge out. Do I need to add a dart, perhaps, and just do a regular FBA? If so, how do I decide how much to increase? I wear a C cup bra (possibly D -- another story, but basically my band size is 39, so it's either wear a 38D, which feels way too tight, or a 40C, which is what I've been doing).

diane s
star
diane s  Friend of PR
Intermediate
OR USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 4527
Login to reply to this post

Date: 2/23/13 10:15 AM

A fba will give you more width and a little length. After I do a fba in an empire, I still have to add length.
You can lower the back seam to match the front, or leave it as is, and taper it match the front.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

Nancy K
starstarstar
Nancy K
Advanced
NY USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 8070
Login to reply to this post

In reply to HarrietHomeowner <<


Date: 2/23/13 2:36 PM

You can slice across the front at bust level, adding a slight curve to the outside edges on each side. Then ease the front to the back when you sew the side seams. This works nicely and you would line up the two front pattern pieces to draw the line in the same place. If that is still not enough extra length you can curve the bottom as well.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting >> Full bust adjustment on faux-wrap empire waist top

Merchants on PR
Sewn Square One
Patterns for Your Style.
Web site
Gwyn Hug
Fabric Shopping Help!
Deals!
Lanetzliving Vintage Sewing Patterns
Vintage Sewing Patterns
Deals!
Style Arc sewing dress patterns
Patterns That Fit
Web site
Victoria Jones Collection
Timeless Hawaiian styles
Web site

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Leather 101
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Leather 101

Online Sewing Classes
Sewing Basics
Fee: $14.99
(Regular $14.99)
Sewing Basics

Butterick 5713
photo
Review by LoriB on 1/28/11
Read Review

Islander Sewing Systems Women's City Western Blouse Pattern
Islander Sewing Systems Women's City Western Blouse Pattern

Details
Price: $19.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Sew Chic The Tia Dress Pattern (ln1312)
Sew Chic The Tia Dress Pattern (ln1312)

Details
Price: $18.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Sis Boom Carly Bubble Romper Digital Pattern
Sis Boom Carly Bubble Romper Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $10.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

MariaDenmark Super Socks Digital Pattern
MariaDenmark Super Socks Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $3.75
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Other Vanilla House: P150 My Bag
photo
Review by kkkkaty on 2/15/10
Read Review

McCalls 5989 Pattern ( Size 4-6-8-10-12 )
McCalls 5989 Pattern ( Size 4-6-8-10-12 )

Details
Price: $15.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Simplicity 5276 Pattern( Size ONE SIZE )
Simplicity 5276 Pattern( Size ONE SIZE )

Details
Price: $13.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN