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FBA Dart rotation
- just not quite sure where?!
wenznz
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wenznz  Friend of PR
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NEW ZEALAND
Member since 7/8/11
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Date: 2/18/13 3:26 AM

I am having a play with the top on New Look 6194 (view A).
I have so far traced off the front, and added a 1" FBA, but don't think I want to leave the bust dart there. I'm not quite sure where/how to rotate it though.

My first instinct was to rotate it into the waist dart, but that is fisheye shaped, and I'm not sure how that would work. As an aside, I am keeping the extra width in the waist/hip from the FBA, as I need to add there anyway.
My other thought was to rotate into the shoulder and have it as gathers, but I'm also not sure if that would look right either.

Any thoughts on a way forward, well received.

------
Wendy
Wellington, New Zealand

rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
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In reply to wenznz <<
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Date: 2/18/13 8:32 AM

Hi Wendy, have you thought about rotating the dart out to the side seam? losing it altogether?

I you look at Debbie Cooks blog stitches & seams and go to her tutorials there's a great example of this under "FBA adjustment with Raglan seams" It would work for the top you are doing I think.

There's also instuctions in FFRP if you have a copy.

All the best

Sue

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Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to wenznz <<
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Date: 2/18/13 8:59 AM

You have several choices. You can rotate it into the dart already there, it just gets larger or you can rotate it into a second dart next to the existing dart. This is a nice design detail. Yes, you can rotate the dart out but I find that this tends to leave drag lines if you are really full busted. Think of draping a basketball. I wouldn't rotate it into the shoulder for gathers, I think that it will change the style too much and add too much loose fabric above the bust, something not really compatible with this style.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

CathrynR
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CathrynR  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/18/13 12:41 PM

For this design I would either just add the bust dart, increase the existing waist dart, or as suggested by Nancy K, (and I think this is the best option) add a second waist dart. IMO.

hazelnut
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hazelnut  Friend of PR
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In reply to wenznz <<


Date: 2/18/13 1:55 PM

Perhaps you could rotate it into the shoulder and connect it with the waist dart to form a shoulder princess-type seam (no gathers).

rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 2/18/13 7:33 PM

I love Nancys idea to have a second dart next to the existing one. It keeps the style as intended and will add design.

Interesting what Nancy said about the drag lines when rotating a dart out to the side seam. I sew a lot of tees and even when my FBA is really good I can get slight drag lines which is very annoying when you go to such trouble to get the fit down. Thanks Nancy.

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

VivianZ
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VivianZ  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/19/13 8:33 AM

Hazelnut:
I have a question regarding this. How does one move a side princess seam to a shoulder one?

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height 5'2" bust 36, waist 31, hip 39.
I have way too many yards to count, and I will never use them up, but I will die trying!

hazelnut
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hazelnut  Friend of PR
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In reply to VivianZ <<


Date: 2/22/13 7:17 PM

Sorry for the delayed response - I was away from the morning of the 19th until now and didn't have internet access.

Quote:
How does one move a side princess seam to a shoulder one?
Well I'm not sure. I experimented with splitting a large (3+ inch) side bust dart (which was created from making an FBA on a dartless t-shirt) into 2 darts, and then rotating 1/2 of it to a waist dart and 1/2 up to the shoulder. This resulted in something that looked very similar to a shoulder princess seam dart. I connected the 2 darts at the apex, then moved it over to the side of the apex. ( I'll find the link to the topic where PR folks were helping me and add it to this post, though I think the photos may be lost from when my hard drive crashed).

I would think moving a princess armhole dart to the shoulder wouldn't be too difficult. In theory, you have to close one dart and then open that same amount somewhere else. I haven't yet tried a pattern with a shoulder princess seam, nor have I completed the fitting of one that has an armhole princess seam to get a good muslin yet. My experience with princess seams and rotating darts is limited to the one experience with the above t-shirt FBA dart rotation. I'm not really in a position to give advice on how to do something, but I thought it might be possible in wenznz situation since she already had a waist dart and was moving the newly created bust dart to the shoulder, but didn't want the gathers from it. It was just a thought and a suggestion that *might* work, but, as others have pointed out, moving the dart to the shoulder would change the unique look of the top into something wenznz might not want either, so....

Here's the link to my princess seam topic self-made princess seam and all the *really* good advice that I was given! If you want to see the photos I'll need to search through my computer and see if I still have them - I sure hope they weren't lost in the crash, as I was relying on having them available when I try this again. :)
VivianZ
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VivianZ  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/23/13 8:45 AM

Hazelnut, Thank you so much! This has helped quite a bit. I have a perfect fitting side princess seamed dress, but wanted to convert it into a shoulder one, I have read side princess seams give a better fit, but none the less, I want to give it a try. Mostly because I want to try a color block dress, and also have a full bust, and figured a shoulder one would be more slimming, and not accent the bust as much. I also have 7 rolls of kimono silk, which are 15 inches wide and wanted a pattern where I could use them in a dress with out looking patchwork.
What you have given me is perfect. I, like you, have looked all over the internet, and found little for this adustment, and likewise in my pattern fitting books.
Thanks again! also for the link.

------
height 5'2" bust 36, waist 31, hip 39.
I have way too many yards to count, and I will never use them up, but I will die trying!

hazelnut
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hazelnut  Friend of PR
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USA
Member since 1/7/09
Posts: 2310
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In reply to VivianZ <<


Date: 2/24/13 0:43 AM

I'm glad it helped! I know how hard it can be to find the specific info you need when surfing the net, even when you think it's probably out there... somewhere! LOL

I've read a shoulder princess seam is more slimming for a full bust, esp. if you are short (like me) or short-waisted. I have patterns of both styles of princess seams, but have not been successful in making one up yet. When I realized I had to learn how to fit patterns and make an FBA and other alterations, any new pattern experimentation came to a screeching halt and I've been mainly trying to get a few simple patterns to fit and look half-way decent. I've decided I need to learn to fit myself before I continue to learn sewing techniques, otherwise I'm much too disappointed, and feel what's the point of sewing if you can't wear anything you make? LOL Good luck with your dress, it sounds like it will be lovely!

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