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Fitting knits
Am I on the right track?
marymary86
marymary86
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Georgia USA
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Date: 2/18/13 1:31 PM

I'm working on Burda 3197 (their starter T shirt).

I measured my upper arm and saw that it was bigger than the pattern's sleeve at the same place. I added 2" (so there would be ease too).

The sleeve was huge! It hung in large folds.

Then I compared a J.Jill T shirt I own with the pattern. The pattern piece was actually slightly bigger (and I took seam allowances into account).

Is it just me or am I learning that knits seem to need less than you'd think when making adjustments?

I'm glad I bought 10 yards of an inexpensive knit when I saw it for sale on Fabric Mart's website for $1 a yard. It's nice having so much "muslin" to work with.

------
Mary


tlmck3
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tlmck3
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Date: 2/18/13 3:14 PM

When making adjustments, keep in mind that many knit patterns are meant to have zero to negative ease which is what makes them form-fitting.

------
I am going for a level of perfection that is only mine... Most of the pleasure is in getting that last little piece perfect...Inspiration is for amateurs. The rest of us just keep showing up and doing the work.

Chuck Close, painter, printmaker, photographer

Hope has two lovely daughters: Anger and Courage

St. Augustine

rivergum
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rivergum
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Date: 2/18/13 3:26 PM

I think you are on the right track comparing the pattern pieces to a tee that fits you well. If you have muslin fabric to play with, find the size that corresponds best, if necessary morphing between sizes, and make it up. It is so quick anyway for a basic muslins without hems.

Then assess the fit and take it from there.

------
Taking in is happier than letting out.

Sydney, Australia

lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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In reply to rivergum <<


Date: 2/18/13 3:59 PM

You need to compare the measurements to a Tshirt that has the same amount of stretch factor.

Marie367
Marie367  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/18/13 4:07 PM

When I started sewing for myself two years ago, I jumped into knits. I started with Kwik Sew and Jalie-they both have a t-shirt that has a very nice fit. They have several nice knit tops that make them worth the investment (IMO). I don't know about this Burda that you are working with. I know I like Burda pants and even though I still have issues with pants fitting, I got closer with Burda than I did with any other pattern.
I have found that knits can vary so much in their stretch etc that a pattern can "change" size or seem to do so.

rosehatten
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In reply to marymary86 <<
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Date: 2/18/13 4:56 PM

Hi Mary,
Also remember that different knits stretch different amounts. That could be part of the problem.

Rose

rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/18/13 10:55 PM

As you have plenty of fabric you could cut off a strip across the stretch of about 3 - 4 inches wide.
Wrap this strip around the waist, hip and upper arm. I wrap the strip and judge the firmness of the fit that I want and then allow a tiny bit for seams. Take down the measurements from the strip of fabric. Mark the waist and hip line on your tee pattern and also the arm width. Compare the fabric strip measurements to your pattern. I always find that this method gives you a pretty good starting point.

If your bust size is over a C cup you may want to get a friend to help you take a bust measurement using the strip, it's easier with help. Wrap the strip around the body at the full bust. Pin it so that it is comfortable and then mark where the side seams would be. under the arm. Mark front and back on the strip and take the strip off. Compare the front to the front of the pattern and the back to the back. Very often on knits it's not necessary to do a full bust alteration but if the strip is a fair bit bigger over the bust than the pattern this will indicate that your tee may pull over your bust too much. I'm a DD cup and unfortunately I can't get away without doing the FBA very often even on knits! )-:

HTH

Sue

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

rtorr
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In reply to rag doll <<


Date: 2/19/13 12:31 PM

omigoodness, this sounds so simple and intuitive, and makes perfect sense. I am going to print this and put it on the wall in the sewing room. Did you come up w/this yourself? If so, you should be teaching classes! Thank you.

ChrisS
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ChrisS
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Date: 2/19/13 11:36 PM

Sue, the strip of fabric idea is great. I usually just kind of wing it when considering the difference in stretch. If my fabric has very little stretch I'll add a bit more ease but sometimes it doesn't work out. I just made a shirt with some very stable ponte and even though I added some ease to my muslined pattern its still a bit tight across the chest and shoulders.

I can see it being really helpfull to compare the actual amount of extra ease needed based on your strip of fabric method.
-- Edited on 2/19/13 11:40 PM --

rag doll
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Date: 2/20/13 3:05 AM

Thanks for the vote of confidence ladies. Tis idea came from when I began sewing in the early 80's and had many a disaster. (Some things never change....lol....), I then discovered that if I measured a similar garment for length or width, I had a few less disasters! I took this a step further with the fitting strips as in those days knit sewing was very popular and it just seemed natural to wind the fabric around the body!

I find my method works best if you measure your upper chest, use that measurement to base your sizing on and most importantly use as close as possible to the suggested fabric/amount of suggested stretch on the pattern envelope. If you use a quite different fabric than what the pattern is designed for your garment would possibly end up too small or large in the upper body area and only fit in areas where you have used the "strip fit" method.

HTH

Sue

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

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