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Constuction help
Pleated yoke with pass-through box pleat
MegglesTC
MegglesTC
Member since 3/18/12
Posts: 4
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Date: 2/22/13 3:51 PM

Does anyone have any ideas on the contruction of the back of this blouse? I can't figure out if the yoke is more of just an applique or if it is part of the main contruction. I'm not sure how to piece it so that the box pleat continues all the way up the back.
Blouse

PetitePear
PetitePear
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Member since 6/10/10
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Date: 2/22/13 4:32 PM

I think it's the same piece. I'm guessing that the box pleat is no longer of the full depth once the horizontal tucks start. The middle is probably cut apart from the two sides and then sewn back together from that point up.

I was curious so I just tried this with a piece of scrap fabric and it works.

tinflutterby
tinflutterby  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/23/13 1:15 AM

I would expect a center back seam and a divided yoke so the pleat would be the full depth all the way up. Sandwich the yoke and the back and sew the center back seam. Press carefully.

MegglesTC
MegglesTC
Member since 3/18/12
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Date: 2/23/13 8:20 AM

Thanks! I am going to give it a try on scrap fabric too so I can get a feel for it. Trying to visualize it in my head is killer on my sleep-deprived brain

PetitePear
PetitePear
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Date: 2/25/13 4:22 PM

In case you're still having trouble. It's the same construction concept as the drape front in this Burdastyle jersey top. Except with horizontal tucks instead of gather and the back is less shaped than the front. If you download the pdf instruction, it shows what the pattern pieces look like for the blose.

For what you're doing, there wouldn't really be any gap between the middle and two sides, just a couple of slits on either side of the middle pleat.

MegglesTC
MegglesTC
Member since 3/18/12
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Date: 3/6/13 7:40 AM

Ah thank you! I did a trial on scrap fabric and it looked fine but when I tried to repeat on the real thing, not so good. Following the guidelines of that Burda pattern is way easier than what i was doing! Thanks!!!

PetitePear
PetitePear
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Date: 3/6/13 3:58 PM

Yay! Glad to hear you got it. I'd love to see the result when you're done.

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