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ripply darts
on a bias dress
peaudane
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Date: 2/24/13 4:38 AM

This Burda Style dress from April 2012 is cut on the bias and made of silk crepe bias dress
See how the bodice darts ripple? What do you think causes this, and how could it be avoided?
There is another version of this dress in the same issue dress which is made of georgette and seems like it is less rippled, but maybe the ripples just don't show as much in the darker color?

nancy2001
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In reply to peaudane <<


Date: 2/24/13 1:54 PM

Sewing a garment on the bias is tricky, and that's why I would never even dream of doing so. Claire Schaeffer explains how to cut and sew a bias garment on page 125 of her Couture Sewing Techniques book. Apparently it's a very painstaking process involving muslin fabric with a selvedge edge, dressmaker carbon paper, tracing wheels, thread tracing and 1" wide seam allowances.

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PattyE
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Date: 2/24/13 3:15 PM

I made a little bias top last year out of silk crepe. Although it had no darts, I can't help thinking the ripply darts shown in the dress were a little poorly sewn.
I'm certainly no expert but you really want to avoid anything stretching when sewing on the bias. I used a walking foot and used tissue paper to make my fabric move more smoothly. Between the two the seams came out fine.
That's a gorgeous dress and would be fabulous made in a silk crepe.

MilongueraThreads
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Date: 2/24/13 3:28 PM

I'm currently making this dress now in a silk charmeuse and I don't think the darts ripple. I'll post a review when I'm done (likely later this week).

peaudane
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In reply to MilongueraThreads <<


Date: 2/24/13 3:33 PM

That's great luckysweetheart, I'll be looking forward to seeing your dress!

Nancy K
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In reply to peaudane <<


Date: 2/24/13 8:48 PM

Silk crepe is pita to sew and on the bias even more so. I've made bias garments and it takes more preparation. The wide seam allowances and marked seams lines are imperative as bias stretches and the seam allowances narrow. Like couture sewing you match the seam lines, not the cut edges. If you don't want the darts to ripple you have to handle the fabric very carefully and hand basting the seams and darts discourages slipping, which happens easily in bias, especially in slippery fabrics.

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beauturbo
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In reply to peaudane <<
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Date: 2/25/13 0:28 AM

I think it's kind of hard to tell if they would even be there with dress not on the person or not? If the ripples are not there, when dress does not have her in it, and just empty of a body, maybe it's just too tight on her there? Also maybe the properties of the particular fabric, also maybe fabric stretching after darts sewn in? Or darts sewn in with tension too tight and puckery maybe? Maybe any machine stitching there is even a bit to tight and constricting for those darts there in that particular fabric?

If I made it and then tried it on, and saw the darts were looking like that on me, I would know how to start to get rid of that effect though. As long as dress not really too tight. I would just unpick all the machine stitching out of all those darts, and the side seams. And hope prior needle holes would not show later. Then I would let the dress hang longer and even pull on it. Then I would just refold the darts while dress was really on me. and pin them. Then I would not even machine stitch them at all. I would just hand slip stitch them closed while actually stretching my fabric on purpose while doing that instead. I think that might work. So that is how I would try to fix it for me.

I think it might be more easy to see how to fix it though, at least for me, than to know what happened with something that someone else sewed to make something happen. But, I think pattern is probably fine, as I can't see how they could even actually make that happen on purpose by anything they did in just the pattern, but I think the sewn sample for the photo, in that exact fabric and maybe some of their choices in sewing it and on that particular model, probably could have had some improvement.


-- Edited on 2/25/13 0:46 AM --

clothingengineer
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In reply to peaudane <<


Date: 2/25/13 11:15 AM

I think Sandra Betzina recommends sewing all bias seams and darts with a very narrow zig-zag stitch, like a 1.0 width and 2.0 length - will have to check on that for you. It helps the fabric relax.

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MilongueraThreads
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In reply to clothingengineer <<


Date: 2/25/13 12:27 PM

This is pretty much what I did; I think my width was 1.5 and length was 2.5, but I'm pretty much sewing the entire dress with zigzag stitches.

PattiAnnJ
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In reply to peaudane <<


Date: 2/25/13 1:00 PM

Maybe one was not constructed with a new, sharp needle, or the wrong size needle.

If you have some scraps, mark the bias and test making a dart.

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