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Forum > Fitting Woes > What is this fitting issue? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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What is this fitting issue?
Wrinkles in knit top
westmoon
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westmoon  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/24/13 9:33 AM

There are all kinds of problems with this mostly-kind-of-wearable muslin of a tee, but on the fit front I am most concerned about the wrinkles above the bust. My books are telling me everything from "square shoulder" to "problem with sleeve". Anyone like to take a stab at what is wrong with it? Unfortunately I serged off my seam allowances so I can't fix this particular tee, but I'd like to fix the flat pattern if I can for my next go at this pattern. (Please excuse the long-sleeved tee under my top, I was too chilly to stand about taking photos in short-sleeves.)


-- Edited on 2/24/13 9:33 AM --

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Debbie Lancaster
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Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/24/13 11:27 AM

See the horizontal strain lines across the upper chest area? And the diagonal strain lines from the neckline to the shoulder? They mean that the area from the shoulder to the middle armscye is too tight.

FFRP recommends slashing the pattern vertically from the middle of the shoulder seam, then horizontally to the middle of the armscye, and swinging the piece out from the shoulder seam hinge to give you more room. You would then true the shoulder seam and blend the armscye seam to the bottom of the armscye.
-- Edited on 2/24/13 11:35 AM --

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Debbie

sewsally
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Date: 2/25/13 10:41 AM

The sleeves look a bit tight too.

Debbie Lancaster
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In reply to sewsally <<
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Date: 2/25/13 8:42 PM

Quote: sewsally
The sleeves look a bit tight too.

Yes, they do. I think, though, that I'd do the front adjustment, and then see if that changes how the sleeves fit.

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Debbie

rag doll
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In reply to westmoon <<
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Date: 2/25/13 11:24 PM

I too agree with Debbie, although I would add a little "in case" width all the way from the armhole to the hip and add the same to the sleeve under arm seam. I just feel you will have a bit of SA to play with if you need it

Once you are happy with the fit, if the small diagonal wrinkle is still pointing to the bust you may want to ease the front side seam upwards a little bit to give a tiny bit more fullness at the side bust.

HTH
Sue

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