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Forum > Fitting Woes > Me Again - Pants Fitting ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Me Again - Pants Fitting
Simplicity 2700
MrsCharisma
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Date: 2/26/13 11:20 PM

I've made 3 partial muslins and I think #3 is worth making a full muslin out of (especially since this material is super thin).

Version 1

For Version 1, I cut a straight 18 average. Way too tight - everywhere.

Version 2

For Version 2, I cut a straight 18 curvy. Too saggy in the crotch and hips.

Version 3

For Version 3, I Frankensteined the pattern. I think I'm ready to make a full muslin with this one. I might have to reduce that SA a bit through the thigh, but otherwise, it felt pretty good on.

Suggestions on those horizontal lines? I want to get them as close to perfect as possible, but won't kill myself to do so either. If I made a pair that felt as good as this mini-muslin did and those wrinkles/lines were present I wouldn't be sad :)

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www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Stylist 7258 | Kenmore 1503 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 39.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

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Date: 2/27/13 6:44 AM

comment removed by poster
-- Edited on 2/27/13 6:46 AM --

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MNBarb
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Date: 2/27/13 8:34 AM

A good start for a muslin. You might want to make up the last pair with a one inch SA for fitting purposes. You will need to make them long to determine the fit. Lots happens when you add the legs.

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arianamaniacs
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Date: 2/27/13 10:29 AM

Those horizontal lines may be due to a short front crotch length. This can happen if you have a bubble-butt syndrome (like me), or if your waistline tends to tilt forward (also like me), meaning that my waistline is not parallel to the floor when I'm standing straight. The back of the waistline is 1 inch higher than my front waistline.

Check out this Sure-fit designs video. At the end she does an example of how to change the front length.

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Date: 2/27/13 11:15 AM

Most of those horizontal wrinkles are because they're too tight across the mid section and hips. Notice how the plaid is pulling towards the side seam and also traveling upwards? That should all be straight and level.

Debbie
MrsCharisma
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Date: 2/27/13 12:07 PM

I sewed these with a 1" SA (so that's 4" available through the hip area, correct??). Will that help?

I bought "real" muslin material yesterday and plan to sew up a full pair this week.

What can I leave off of the muslin, if anything? Should I go all the way, zipper, waistband, pockets, etc? Or can I just do the full pant length and be ok?

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www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Stylist 7258 | Kenmore 1503 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 39.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

MrsCharisma
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In reply to arianamaniacs

Date: 2/27/13 12:13 PM

Quote: arianamaniacs
Those horizontal lines may be due to a short front crotch length. This can happen if you have a bubble-butt syndrome (like me), or if your waistline tends to tilt forward (also like me), meaning that my waistline is not parallel to the floor when I'm standing straight. The back of the waistline is 1 inch higher than my front waistline.



Check out this Sure-fit designs video. At the end she does an example of how to change the front length.

Interesting!

How I came up with this sizing, I took out my very best pair of RTW, which fit really well. Whenever I buy rtw slacks and jeans I end up getting them tailored. The crotch (length?) of the rtw was 26" (10" of front crotch and 16" of back). This of course is the finished item. The pattern had a 23" or 24" length.

I ended up cutting a 18 and grading out the crotch length to a size 22 in front and size 20 in back. I was pleased with how this changed the fit.

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www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Stylist 7258 | Kenmore 1503 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 39.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

Nancy K
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Date: 2/27/13 1:38 PM

The horizontal lines tell me that it's too tight. I also think that you need a tad bit more length in the front rise. You haven't posted back photos yet, but I'd be interested in seeing them as well.

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Nancy K
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In reply to MrsCharisma

Date: 2/27/13 1:43 PM

All details should be left off the muslin. No pockets, put in a zipper without making it a fly front, just slam it in to quote Kenneth King.
You should mark mid hip front and back and the grainlines on all of the pieces. Make sure that they are visible from the right side. You can machine baste them. You should make your waist seams 1" wide and mark them as well. You can use a 1" elastic to mark your waist line, and then sew on a waistband. Make sure that you stay stitch your waistline so that it doesn't stretch out with fittings. I'd also add a little more to the side seams since these are so tight.
Sorry I didn't say it earlier, but these are great for a third muslin. You've figured out a lot already.
-- Edited on 2/27/13 1:44 PM --

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MrsCharisma
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In reply to Nancy K

Date: 2/27/13 2:21 PM

Quote: Nancy K
All details should be left off the muslin. No pockets, put in a zipper without making it a fly front, just slam it in to quote Kenneth King.

You should mark mid hip front and back and the grainlines on all of the pieces. Make sure that they are visible from the right side. You can machine baste them. You should make your waist seams 1" wide and mark them as well. You can use a 1" elastic to mark your waist line, and then sew on a waistband. Make sure that you stay stitch your waistline so that it doesn't stretch out with fittings. I'd also add a little more to the side seams since these are so tight.

Sorry I didn't say it earlier, but these are great for a third muslin. You've figured out a lot already.
-- Edited on 2/27/13 1:44 PM --

Thanks Nancy!

Should I have noticed markings on the pattern to indicate where mid hip is?

When you say add to the side seam...do you mean let out my current 1" side seams or when I trace the pattern onto the new muslin, add additional side seams?

Thanks again :)

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www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Stylist 7258 | Kenmore 1503 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 39.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

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