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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Lengthen torso/lower bust for crossover knit top & maybe FBA

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Lengthen torso/lower bust for crossover knit top & maybe FBA
Simplicity 1916 view D
Sewandwrite
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Sewandwrite  Friend of PR
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MD USA
Member since 5/16/08
Posts: 814
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Date: 3/1/13 3:22 PM

Crossover knit top generally have an empire waist seamline that falls right across my bust. Some would say I have a low bust, but my perspective is I just have a long torso!

I thought I'd take a stab at making a crossover top that actually fits me using Simplicity 1916, which is a PR Best Pattern of 2012. I'm looking at view D.

The pattern has no lengthen/shorten line for the bodice. Plus, there's no bust box to move down. I usually do a full bust adjustment in my tops but am not sure what to do in this case.

I need advice on whether and how I can adjust the pattern to fit me. If this take high-end skills, let me know that too -- I will move on to something else. I am open to suggestions for similar patterns that could be adjusted too, including twist tops, if they're still in style!

diane s
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diane s  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/1/13 4:48 PM

First make the fba adjustment if you need it. Tissue fit and mark the bust point with a pen and proceed with the fba. Then rotate the dart into the empire gathers, or you you could rotate it into the shoulder seam for slight gathers. Add your length to the bottom, or pick a spot midway in the bodice and slice and add paper. This style isn't as hard because there's no back seam to match up.
You will have to add extra length to the back if you don't shorten the front piece under the empire seam the same amount you added.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

rosehatten
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rosehatten  Friend of PR
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In reply to Sewandwrite <<


Date: 3/2/13 5:01 AM

Sewandwrite,
Vogue 8536 (view E) has what they call a Mock-wrap neck that is similar to the crossover design. That might give you the look you want without dealing with much adjustment. I have that pattern on order, so haven't seen the actual pattern pieces yet.

BTW, I think the Vogue sale for $4.99 is still going on.

Hope this helps. Good luck with your top.

Rose

HarrietHomeowner

HarrietHomeowner  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/4/13 1:51 PM

I was just asking about this --- you might find some of the suggestions here helpful:

FBA on faux wrap top

My self-made pattern is similar to the one you want to use except there aren't any underbust gathers in front.

And no, I haven't had a chance to work on it further. Maybe tomorrow.

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