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Forum > Fitting Woes > "New" way to choose pattern size ( Moderated by Deepika, Jacqui315)

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"New" way to choose pattern size
New to me, anyway!
schmammy
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schmammy  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/1/13 7:42 PM

Two different pros suggested that we should be choosing our pattern size according to shoulder width measurement at ETA Dallas last weekend. Have you ever heard of this? Have you tried it?

Their reasoning made sense enough that I'm going to give it a shot.

------
Indecision may or may not be my problem. -Jimmy Buffet

http://chihuahuaonmylap.blogspot.com/

KathySews
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Date: 3/1/13 7:52 PM

I think I heard this from Nancy Zieman but have not tried it. How do you know what size corresponds to your shoulders?
Amy-may
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Subject: New way to choose pattern size Date: 3/1/13 7:54 PM

How? What are the landmarks for measuring? I'm never quite sure how to measure shoulders, from bone to bone across the back?

I have measured the circumference of my daughter's shoulders and compared it to mine. Most of our measurements are very close, but her shoulders are much wider. With nearly identical bust, waist and hip, I sew a 12 for her while reducing the bust and waist. I make an 8 for myself. Some sort of "frame" measurement should be as important as where your fat is or isn't deposited!

I think it should make all the difference - being a variation on the high bust concept. So tell us how to measure and how that translates into a size.
Elona
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In reply to schmammy
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Date: 3/1/13 8:08 PM

The thing is that almost none of us is one pattern 'size.' We have larger or smaller than average chests, busts, waists, hips, and so on. How could one pattern size address all that?

Burda tackles this problem so very nicely with their intense measurement chart, which very few people use, thinking it takes too much time.

If you follow the Burda measurement sequence, you will measure your neck (which generally takes care of the shoulders, chest, and upper bust), your full bust (which measurement is used for Burda's bust size--and it works if your cups are not much bigger than a C), your waist, your hip, your outer leg length, and so on. You circle all these numbers as you enter them, and the result will be a mixture of various sizes. In tracing off your pattern, you will gradually move from one size line to another, and the result will be a fairly customized pattern, just for you.

This is the most sensible method I know of to determine your personal pattern, which will of course not be one size, unless you are what's called a 'fit model' for a particular company.

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Elona

mary in FL
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In reply to schmammy

Date: 3/1/13 8:47 PM

For Big 4 patterns, I use the size based on my front width, a la Nancy Zieman. I put a thick magazine high under each arm scye and have someone measure across the top with a yardstick.

Stretch & Sew patterns include the back shoulder width measurement on the size charts for tops, dresses, and jackets. I find their sizing very accurate when used this way.

------
from Daytona Beach, FL
http://mary-sews.blogspot.com/

solveg
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In reply to mary in FL

Date: 3/1/13 9:50 PM

Once you've measured your front width, then what do you do? What does that correspond to?
meleliza
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In reply to Elona

Date: 3/1/13 10:01 PM

What does Burda suggest you do if you are much bigger than a C?

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Melanie

CM_Sews
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In reply to solveg
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Date: 3/1/13 10:06 PM

Quote: solveg
Once you've measured your front width, then what do you do? What does that correspond to?

14-inches = size 14

Each 1/2-inch larger or smaller, go up or down a size:
13 1/2-inchs = size 12
14 1/2=inches = size 16
etc.

This is an attempt to measure your skeletal frame (armpit crease to armpit crease), which isn't going to change no matter how much "fluff" you might add to your frame. There's a chart in the Pattern Fitting with Confidence book (Nancy Zieman) (the pivot and slide method).

Measuring your upper bust/chest and measuring your shoulders are all methods that try to determine your actual frame size.

CMC
GlButterfly

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Date: 3/2/13 0:35 AM

Ditto to what CM_Sews said.

Your upper chest measures your skelton. I am curious about the shoulder measurement because a person could have wide shoulders or narrow shoulders for their size. Maybe they are using the shoulder measurement just so they won't repeat what Nancy Zieman and the Sew/Fit system say. Interesting.

------
"TOL machines = Too (much) Operator Learning"--poorpigling, January, 2016

sewpelican
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Subject: New way to choose pattern size Date: 3/2/13 1:16 AM

Reading this has made me get out my NZ Fitting w Confidence again, have photocopied charts to take my measurements which have changed over the decades! Yuk. Never mind, I shall go back to her method as it has worked previously for me.

Have been a fan of hers for some 15 years while I lived in N America. Now I get to see her shows on computer which is great. Miss not being able to take advantage of some of her sales specials, postage is so prohibitive.

------
Joan
Sunshine Coast QLD

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