Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Finishing darts ( Moderated by MissCelie)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Finishing darts
How do you typically treat the raw edges?
christik
christik
Member since 12/14/06
Posts: 90
Login to reply to this post

Date: 3/4/13 2:08 PM

Okay, I've pretty much avoided using patterns with darts. On those few patterns I've sewn with darts, I've never been comfortable with how you finish the raw dart edges. Do you overcast them, bind them, use another method, or just leave them unfinished? Then, there is the related question about opening up a dart: you sew the dart, make any final fitting adjustments, slit open the dart, trim the seam allowances, and press. I've never seen anyone address how they finish the raw edges of the slit dart (even with unlined garments). So, what's the general consensus? I can't be the only one that is confused by this topic!


Kristi

PetitePear
PetitePear
Advanced Beginner
Member since 6/10/10
Posts: 255
Login to reply to this post

Date: 3/4/13 2:48 PM

I've never had to slit open my dart. Any reason why you can't finish them like any other seams?

christik
christik
Member since 12/14/06
Posts: 90
Login to reply to this post

In reply to PetitePear <<


Date: 3/4/13 3:14 PM

When you slice open a dart or have a dart that is not folded, I would expect you'd get a lot of bulk from, say, serging it, not to mention it would not look very professional inside. I can't see using binding, again due to bulk. I guess I am looking for how to have a low bulk, clean finish. The only method I can think of to finish the edge here would be to hand overcast it. But, since I haven't seen it addressed, I'm wondering if some people just leave the raw edge raw.

OTOH, I may also be making a mountain out of a molehill. It is just one of those things that I've wondered about for a long time.

happytobehere
happytobehere
Beginner
Member since 7/31/10
Posts: 270
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 3/4/13 3:50 PM

In fifty plus years of sewing, I've hardly ever sliced open a dart. Do your pattern instructions tell you to do so?

missticky2
missticky2
Intermediate
Member since 12/14/09
Posts: 143
Login to reply to this post

Date: 3/4/13 4:13 PM

Kristi, that's an interesting question and one I've never thought about. I guess these days, any darts I've done have just been folded ones. But, I do seem to remember many years ago, having patterns where the dart was actually cut out and you had to bring the two raw edges together. I have no idea what the patterns were now. And that was back in the very early days of my sewing when finishing off seams wasn't all that important to me (glad to say that's changed..lol) so I never would have finished off those raw edges back then. I'm not sure what I would do now either. As you say, anything you do is going to add bulk. I'm interested to see what others say too

Janice

------
Blessings
Janice

PattyE
starstar
PattyE  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MI
Member since 9/7/10
Posts: 1318
Login to reply to this post

Date: 3/4/13 4:40 PM

You shouldn't have to slit open your darts unless there is specific instruction to do so for some construction reason.
As for finishing the raw dart edges are you referring to the seam allowance edge where the dart originates?

christik
christik
Member since 12/14/06
Posts: 90
Login to reply to this post

Date: 3/4/13 6:09 PM

General background: I was looking at the other recent dart posts on PR which linked to Gertie's Blog post on French Darts. This also reminded me of a UFO that I have from New Look 6945, which has vertical waist darts and are approximately 7 inches long and open (kind of like the pattern designer slashed the darts in the pattern). The dart finishing issue is why it is a UFO. I've come across the recommendation to open darts in other places, too.

So, I just pulled out 'The Vogue Sewing Book - Revised Edition' from 1975 (page 224 ). They recommend overcasting darts on sheers. However, they have a separate paragraph which states "deep darts or darts in medium to heavy fabrics should be slashed 1/2" to 1" from the point and pressed open." No mention of finishing the fabric for medium to heavy fabric.

Just for kicks I also pulled out 'Singer - The Complete Photo Guide to Sewing' (2005). Page 113 indicates "Wide darts and darts in bulky fabrics should be slashed open on the fold line and trimmed to 5/8 inch or less. Slash to within 1/2inch of point. Press dart open and press point flat." The next step show the dart being pressed open, and it is not overcasted. I think the fabric is a wool of some type.

For what it's worth, I usually use medium weight cottons and other natural fibers. I rarely sew sheers.

LuceLu
star
LuceLu  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
NY USA
Member since 8/4/06
Posts: 1498
Login to reply to this post

Date: 3/4/13 6:32 PM

Aren't french darts pretty much on the bias and don't require finishing? I guess one could hand finish with some fine thread if you wanted to.

Nancy K
starstarstar
Nancy K
Advanced
NY USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 8067
Login to reply to this post

In reply to christik <<
thumbsup 2 members like this.


Date: 3/4/13 7:41 PM

Most of the time you don't slit the dart. You press as sewn and then press to one side, usually towards the cf or cb which is why you've never seen anyone talk about finishing the edges. In thick coating you might slit the dart and in that case the lining is covering it and then you don't need to finish the edges. In a couture garment the dart is balanced with a piece of self fabric or lining material.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

christik
christik
Member since 12/14/06
Posts: 90
Login to reply to this post

Date: 3/5/13 7:03 PM

Thanks everyone!

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Sewing Techniques and Tips >> Finishing darts

Merchants on PR
Victoria Jones Collection
Timeless Hawaiian styles
Web site
So Vintage Patterns
Thank You for Joining!
Deals!
Fitz Like a Glove Ironing Board Cover
Made In Australia
Deals!
SewBaby
Unique Sewing Patterns
Deals!
Budo Bear Designs
Asian Designs
Web site

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Bust Adjustments
Fee: $39.99
(Regular $39.99)
Bust Adjustments

Online Sewing Classes
The Contemporary Couture Jacket
Fee: $49.00
(Regular $49.00)
The Contemporary Couture Jacket

McCall's M5433
photo
Review by Rustybobn on 3/16/08
Read Review

Sewn Square One Swing Shift Pattern
Sewn Square One Swing Shift Pattern

Details
Price: $12.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Christine Jonson Bell Sleeve Wrap & A-Line Skirt
Christine Jonson Bell Sleeve Wrap & A-Line Skirt

Details
Price: $18.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Oliver + S Hopscotch Skirt, Knit Top & Dress Digital Pattern ( Size 6m-4 )
Oliver + S Hopscotch Skirt, Knit Top & Dress Digital Pattern ( Size 6m-4 )

Details
Price: $15.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Peek-A Boo All Star Sneakers Digital Pattern ( Size 0-18 months )
Peek-A Boo All Star Sneakers Digital Pattern ( Size 0-18 months )

Details
Price: $3.99
Add to Bag Add to Bag

BurdaStyle Magazine 12-2010-102
photo
Review by MissCelie on 11/8/13
Read Review

Burda 7084 Pattern
Burda 7084 Pattern

Details
Price: $9.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

New Look 6244 Pattern
New Look 6244 Pattern

Details
Price: $4.49
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN