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FBA experts - will this work?
marymary86
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marymary86
Georgia USA
Member since 7/20/08
Posts: 3900
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 3/8/13 5:10 PM



I'm trying to fit New Look 6459. It has one vertical dart under the bust. I cut the bodice through the dart and then over to underarm.

I'll need to redraw lines to add the extra width on the left.

Before I get any further, I wanted to see if I was on the right track. I've only altered patterns before with a horizontal dart.

To do this one, I turned the pattern so the dart appeared to be horizontal and then drew a line from the dart point (oops - was that supposed to be the bust point?) to the underarm.

I appreciate any advice. I need the opening to be about an inch so the spread is right. I'm just not sure if I'm approaching this correctly. I couldn't find an example of a vertical dart FBA in FFRP.

Oh here's an image from the pattern cover; I'm making the solid pink dress in the lower right hand corner.



-- Edited on 3/8/13 5:12 PM --

------
Mary


diane s
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diane s
Oregon USA
Member since 8/24/02
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Date: 3/9/13 0:30 AM

My method is add a horizontal dart, close it and rotate it into the vertial dart. I would also double check the length of the bodice, sometimes and empire bodice needs more length than the fba provides.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

marymary86
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marymary86
Georgia USA
Member since 7/20/08
Posts: 3900
Skill: Intermediate
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In reply to diane s

Date: 3/9/13 9:57 AM

Thank you Diane.

You made me realize I can also just add a horizontal dart. I don't know why I didn't see that.

I've never sewn an empire style before and wouldn't have known to check the length of the bodice after doing the FBA.

I kept questioning the way I did it because it raised the side seam at a wonky angle.

------
Mary


KathySews
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KathySews  Friend of PR
Michigan USA
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Date: 3/9/13 10:06 AM

Definitely make a muslin if you were not already planning to do that. I do find these trickier for some reason.

Also play with the underbust dart if you fba becomes big. Sometimes instead of a sewn dart I have done a few small pleats or gathers. It helps with a fuller bust.
marymary86
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marymary86
Georgia USA
Member since 7/20/08
Posts: 3900
Skill: Intermediate
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In reply to KathySews
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Date: 3/9/13 11:16 AM

Thanks!

I've already made a muslin from my first go at it. I tried just adding an inch at the bottom and at the side seam.

It wasn't have bad actually. The dress was a wadder but more because I accidentally caught part of the skirt in the side seam while serging it.

Then I realized I was missing an opportunity to learn more about proper pattern alterations. Since I have to make it again, I'm going to give it my best shot.

This is the cutest little dress. I want several to wear around the house (I'll wear it over a cotton t or cami though) during the hot Georgia summer months.

------
Mary


KathySews
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KathySews  Friend of PR
Michigan USA
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Date: 3/9/13 12:18 PM

I have ruined a few tees by overenthusiastic surging also
marymary86
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marymary86
Georgia USA
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Posts: 3900
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In reply to KathySews

Date: 3/9/13 1:03 PM

or late night serging ;)

I'm glad I'm not the only one.

------
Mary


marymary86
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marymary86
Georgia USA
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Posts: 3900
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 3/10/13 2:31 PM

I got fresh muslin and went to work.

First I did an FBA using NZ's technique. I added a horizontal dart and added 1 inch in length to the bottom of the bodice.

I forgot to lower the dart though (I added it at the same line as my bust point) and when I try on the bodice the dart is now about an inch above the bust point (huh??) but everything fits well.

There really isn't much room to lower the dart (it's an empire top).

------
Mary


marymary86
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marymary86
Georgia USA
Member since 7/20/08
Posts: 3900
Skill: Intermediate
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In reply to marymary86

Date: 3/10/13 2:37 PM

So round two. (This is a great pattern for just working on FBAs. The muslins fly together, don't use much fabric, and all the variables are out of the way).

I did another using FFRP (the Y adjustment). I slashed and spread letting everything move the way it wanted until exactly one inch was added to the bottom.

This one fit well through the bust too. It added at least an inch to the side seam though which I don't need.

So my question is - do I chop the extra off the side seam? I should post photos but I 1) I didn't take any and 2) you'd be treated to shots of my stretch marks which I really don't want to share.

Typing this out helps so much. I'm going to rip the side seam and resew it taking in the extra on the side of the bodice and see how that works.

It's interesting to see how both methods are quite different but produce the same result.

I'm sure people here with experienced eyes could spot differences but to my untrained eye - the bodices look the same. I overlaid both altered patterns and they are the same too except for the extra width on the FFRP pattern.

signed - mom of 4

------
Mary


diane s
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diane s
Oregon USA
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Date: 3/10/13 5:00 PM

It sounds like you made the fba large enough so that 1" would be added in length. Since the bodice seems too large, maybe you needed a smaller sba and more length added. That's what I have to do. As for the horizontal dart, close it and rotate it into the vertical dart. Your dart will be large, but as Kathy says, you can make small pleats, 2 darts, gathers etch.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

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