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Yet another Question RE: Burda
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knitstitcher
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Date: 3/9/13 10:41 AM

I'm getting ready to make my second Burda pattern (#135 from 3/2013). My first attempt at a burda pattern was not so good; it was too big and now I'm wondering if this is the reason.....
I was just reading some old posts regarding burda sizing and ran across a post talking about NOT adding the SA to the pieces cut on the fold.....meaning just the actual "cut on fold" line.Uh oh. I added a SA to the actual fold line in my first pattern. Can someone clarify this for me before I start tracing? I actually just traced another blouse pattern from an earlier issue.....glad I haven't cut it out yet!
And while I'm here.....I seem to fall in between sizes on some of the measurements. Should I go up or down in size in this area?
-- Edited on 3/9/13 10:42 AM --
-- Edited on 3/9/13 10:42 AM --
carolineG
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In reply to knitstitcher
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Date: 3/9/13 10:56 AM

Yes, you made a mistake! the good thing is now you know what you did wrong and you will have a much better result on your next make. Don't add anything to the "fold" lines. Just place those on the fold of your fabric and cut.
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In reply to knitstitcher
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Date: 3/9/13 10:58 AM

Quote: knitstitcher

And while I'm here.....I seem to fall in between sizes on some of the measurements. Should I go up or down in size in this area?

-- Edited on 3/9/13 10:42 AM --
-- Edited on 3/9/13 10:42 AM --

I"m not sure about the in-between sizes. Probably go up a size until you've seen a few Burda designs, then you'll have a better idea of how the sloper fits you. Burda is very form fitting (at least compared to domestic pattern companies). Sew a few simple makes (a basic top, a skirt) till you have a good idea of your sizing. Good luck!
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In reply to carolineG
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Date: 3/9/13 3:37 PM

Thank you. I'm making a jacket and don't want it too tight....need a little room to wear something under it.... so maybe I'll go up a size to see how this works.
GBK

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In reply to knitstitcher

Date: 3/9/13 4:31 PM

Lorri, do you mean that all your measures are between two sizes or are your measures ''distributed'' across different sizes?

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Nancy K
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In reply to knitstitcher

Date: 3/9/13 4:48 PM

If there is a fold cf or cb, there is no seam allowance added. If you look at a pattern that already has sas added you will find no seam allowances at the fold line.

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In reply to knitstitcher

Date: 3/9/13 6:21 PM

A fold is a fold. There is no seam so you wouldn't need seam allowances. Now if you didn't want the garment on a fold, such as you knew you had to make adjustments to the back, then you would add seam allowances and sew a seam.

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"TOL machines = Too (much) Operator Learning"--poorpigling, January, 2016

knitstitcher
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In reply to GBK

Date: 3/9/13 9:08 PM

My bust measurement is 35 1/2. This is between a size 38 and 40. My waist is 28 1/2 and also between those same sizes. My back width is 13 1/2 which is a size 36. My hips are a perfect size 38, so I'm not sure what size to cut. I'm making 03/3102 #135. I'm more concerned about the bust and waist sizes. I know I can grade the pattern, but do I cut between the 38 and 40 or just cut the 40? I hope I'm making sense.
By the way....Those measurements are all in inches.
-- Edited on 3/9/13 9:10 PM --
Irina Grace
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In reply to knitstitcher

Date: 3/9/13 11:33 PM

You go by bust measurements for a jacket. You cannot use 38 because it will be too small, so your size is 40. You will need to adjust your waist and hips. Make a muslin first.
I am not sure about your back width measurements. All my Burda magazines are from Europe in Russian and there is no back width measurements in a size chart....
Back width 13.5inches (34.2 cm) corresponds almost perfectly with size 40....(this is from my sewing book charts) and size 36 has 32cm back (12 5/8 in). This is body measurements, not a pattern measurements.
Also this jacket is pretty fitted design so it does not have mush ease.. you said that you want more room inside....So I think it is good to go with size 40...

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Irina Grace
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In reply to Irina Grace
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Date: 3/10/13 1:36 AM

Quote: Irina Grace
I am not sure about your back width measurements. All my Burda magazines are from Europe in Russian and there is no back width measurements in a size chart....

Back width 13.5inches (34.2 cm) corresponds almost perfectly with size 40....(this is from my sewing book charts) and size 36 has 32cm back (12 5/8 in). This is body measurements, not a pattern measurements.

Also this jacket is pretty fitted design so it does not have mush ease.. you said that you want more room inside....So I think it is good to go with size 40...

Hi Irina, on the website, burda has more detailed size charts, both in inches and centimeters: burda size charts.

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