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Yet another Question RE: Burda Center fold
knitstitcher   Intermediate NC Member since 8/17/10 Posts: 305	Login to reply to this post 1 member likes this. Date: 3/9/13 10:41 AM I'm getting ready to make my second Burda pattern (#135 from 3/2013). My first attempt at a burda pattern was not so good; it was too big and now I'm wondering if this is the reason..... I was just reading some old posts regarding burda sizing and ran across a post talking about NOT adding the SA to the pieces cut on the fold.....meaning just the actual "cut on fold" line.Uh oh. I added a SA to the actual fold line in my first pattern. Can someone clarify this for me before I start tracing? I actually just traced another blouse pattern from an earlier issue.....glad I haven't cut it out yet! And while I'm here.....I seem to fall in between sizes on some of the measurements. Should I go up or down in size in this area? -- Edited on 3/9/13 10:42 AM -- -- Edited on 3/9/13 10:42 AM -- ------ Lorri Bernina Artista 730, Babylock Evolution, Sailrite LSZ-1, Singer 201-2,
carolineG Intermediate CA Member since 6/4/04 Posts: 232	Login to reply to this post In reply to knitstitcher << 1 member likes this. Date: 3/9/13 10:56 AM Yes, you made a mistake! the good thing is now you know what you did wrong and you will have a much better result on your next make. Don't add anything to the "fold" lines. Just place those on the fold of your fabric and cut.
carolineG Intermediate CA Member since 6/4/04 Posts: 232	Login to reply to this post In reply to knitstitcher << 1 member likes this. Date: 3/9/13 10:58 AM Quote: knitstitcher And while I'm here.....I seem to fall in between sizes on some of the measurements. Should I go up or down in size in this area? -- Edited on 3/9/13 10:42 AM -- -- Edited on 3/9/13 10:42 AM -- I"m not sure about the in-between sizes. Probably go up a size until you've seen a few Burda designs, then you'll have a better idea of how the sloper fits you. Burda is very form fitting (at least compared to domestic pattern companies). Sew a few simple makes (a basic top, a skirt) till you have a good idea of your sizing. Good luck!
knitstitcher   Intermediate NC Member since 8/17/10 Posts: 305	Login to reply to this post In reply to carolineG << 1 member likes this. Date: 3/9/13 3:37 PM Thank you. I'm making a jacket and don't want it too tight....need a little room to wear something under it.... so maybe I'll go up a size to see how this works. ------ Lorri Bernina Artista 730, Babylock Evolution, Sailrite LSZ-1, Singer 201-2,
GBK   Intermediate GERMANY Member since 12/24/07 Posts: 900	Login to reply to this post In reply to knitstitcher << Like this post Date: 3/9/13 4:31 PM Lorri, do you mean that all your measures are between two sizes or are your measures ''distributed'' across different sizes? ------ Happy Sewing!
Nancy K Advanced NY USA Member since 12/28/04 Posts: 7631	Login to reply to this post In reply to knitstitcher << Like this post Date: 3/9/13 4:48 PM If there is a fold cf or cb, there is no seam allowance added. If you look at a pattern that already has sas added you will find no seam allowances at the fold line. ------ www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
GlButterfly Intermediate CA USA Member since 8/28/08 Posts: 2425	Login to reply to this post In reply to knitstitcher << Like this post Date: 3/9/13 6:21 PM A fold is a fold. There is no seam so you wouldn't need seam allowances. Now if you didn't want the garment on a fold, such as you knew you had to make adjustments to the back, then you would add seam allowances and sew a seam. ------ I have not yet begun to procrastinate
knitstitcher   Intermediate NC Member since 8/17/10 Posts: 305	Login to reply to this post In reply to GBK << Like this post Date: 3/9/13 9:08 PM My bust measurement is 35 1/2. This is between a size 38 and 40. My waist is 28 1/2 and also between those same sizes. My back width is 13 1/2 which is a size 36. My hips are a perfect size 38, so I'm not sure what size to cut. I'm making 03/3102 #135. I'm more concerned about the bust and waist sizes. I know I can grade the pattern, but do I cut between the 38 and 40 or just cut the 40? I hope I'm making sense. By the way....Those measurements are all in inches. -- Edited on 3/9/13 9:10 PM -- ------ Lorri Bernina Artista 730, Babylock Evolution, Sailrite LSZ-1, Singer 201-2,
Irina Grace Advanced Beginner AZ USA Member since 7/18/11 Posts: 96	Login to reply to this post In reply to knitstitcher << Like this post Date: 3/9/13 11:33 PM You go by bust measurements for a jacket. You cannot use 38 because it will be too small, so your size is 40. You will need to adjust your waist and hips. Make a muslin first. I am not sure about your back width measurements. All my Burda magazines are from Europe in Russian and there is no back width measurements in a size chart.... Back width 13.5inches (34.2 cm) corresponds almost perfectly with size 40....(this is from my sewing book charts) and size 36 has 32cm back (12 5/8 in). This is body measurements, not a pattern measurements. Also this jacket is pretty fitted design so it does not have mush ease.. you said that you want more room inside....So I think it is good to go with size 40... ------ Irina Grace English is my Second Language
GBK   Intermediate GERMANY Member since 12/24/07 Posts: 900	Login to reply to this post In reply to Irina Grace << 1 member likes this. Date: 3/10/13 1:36 AM Quote: Irina Grace I am not sure about your back width measurements. All my Burda magazines are from Europe in Russian and there is no back width measurements in a size chart.... Back width 13.5inches (34.2 cm) corresponds almost perfectly with size 40....(this is from my sewing book charts) and size 36 has 32cm back (12 5/8 in). This is body measurements, not a pattern measurements. Also this jacket is pretty fitted design so it does not have mush ease.. you said that you want more room inside....So I think it is good to go with size 40... Hi Irina, on the website, burda has more detailed size charts, both in inches and centimeters: burda size charts. ------ Happy Sewing!

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