Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > True ing up a pattern

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
True ing up a pattern
Grain linen
rag doll
star
rag doll  Friend of PR
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 1/31/06
Posts: 559
Login to reply to this post

Date: 3/11/13 6:37 PM

Hi, I'm confused! I'm doing Kenneth King's Jeanious class and at the stage where we true up the draft.

We first drew the lengthwise and crosswise grain on our draft paper, transferred the pattern to the paper matching the grainlines on our fabric pattern to those on the paper. We then needed to measure our garment to make sure that the draft measurements match the actual garment that is copied.

At this point Kenneth advises that if your out seam on the garment is, say, 1 inch longer than your copied draft then you add 1/2 inch at the waist and the other half at the hem. Ok - I get that so far.

My confusion is that if I have the inseam correct and don't add to that I will then draw the hemline of the pants to connect the new (added) length of the out seam to the existing inseam.

I'm thinking then it will make the hemline of the pants off grain with the crosswise grain and then I would need to correct by marking the new grain line lengthwise.......?

I posted the short version of this question on the class site and Kenneth emailed to say that it wouldn't change the grain line. I know he's the expert but I'm just double checking here so that there's not a crossed wire.

Would appreciate if anyone can help me out.

Thanks
sue

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

couturemom
star
couturemom
Advanced
NC USA
Member since 7/19/11
Posts: 112
Login to reply to this post

Date: 3/17/13 6:44 AM

I agree that's a bit confusing. I would think the hem has to be parallel to the cross grain. Let us know if you have any updates!

JTink
star
JTink
Intermediate
VA USA
Member since 4/20/08
Posts: 5715
Login to reply to this post

Date: 3/17/13 9:00 AM

I'm not familiar with Mr. King's methods, but Sandra Betzina has a good way of truing up pants on her Crafty's class. It's the same method I've been using...I don't know what book it's from, but my pages were copied from a spiral bound book(a friend sent this to me). It's called "Balancing a Pants Pattern".

Short version: On the front pattern piece, you draw a horizonal line from side to crotch point, measure the half way point and mark. You can measure from the cutting lines or the seam lines, but must be consistant. A few inches from the bottom hem, draw another line, seam to seam, measure the half way point...mark.
Draw a line from the top mark all the way down connecting to the bottom mark.

The back of the pants is done a bit differently. You draw the line as you did on the front (side to crotch point). You measure in 1/2 inch from the side + 1/2 of the front measurement. Do the hem line as in the front and connect the center marks of the crotch line and the hem line...Hope this makes some sense

rag doll
star
rag doll  Friend of PR
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 1/31/06
Posts: 559
Login to reply to this post

In reply to JTink <<


Date: 4/3/13 6:12 AM

thanks for the reply. I have done Sandra's class on Craftsy and had forgotten all about the grain line info.

I've had the jeans on the back burner for a couple of weeks but am about to get them out again. I'll use her method and compare the existing grain line with the one that I draw. That will be my answer!

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting >> True ing up a pattern

Merchants on PR
So Vintage Patterns
Thank You for Joining!
Deals!
Fitz Like a Glove Ironing Board Cover
Made In Australia
Deals!
SewBaby
Unique Sewing Patterns
Deals!
Budo Bear Designs
Asian Designs
Web site
Patterns from the Past
vintage sewing patterns
Deals!

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Expert Sewing Techniques for Jackets
Fee: $49.00
(Regular $49.00)
Expert Sewing Techniques for Jackets

Online Sewing Classes
Clone Your Favorite Garment
Fee: $19.99
(Regular $49.00)
Clone Your Favorite Garment

Vogue Patterns 2882
photo
Review by Chris Kell... on 2/14/07
Read Review

You Sew Girl Hobo Pattern
You Sew Girl Hobo Pattern

Details
Price: $22.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Jennifer Stern The Perfectly Fitted Shirt by the Cup-Full Pattern ( Size 16-24(Cup B-DD) )
Jennifer Stern The Perfectly Fitted Shirt by the Cup-Full Pattern ( Size 16-24(Cup B-DD) )

Details
Price: $20.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Victory Chloe Dress Digital Pattern
Victory Chloe Dress Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $19.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Peek-A Boo Hangout Hoodie Digital Pattern ( Size 6 mo -10 years )
Peek-A Boo Hangout Hoodie Digital Pattern ( Size 6 mo -10 years )

Details
Price: $7.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Butterick 4560 Diaper Bag
photo
Review by ClioBklyn on 12/23/09
Read Review

McCalls 6563 Pattern ( Size XSM-SML-MED )
McCalls 6563 Pattern ( Size XSM-SML-MED )

Details
Price: $17.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Burda 9451 Pattern
Burda 9451 Pattern

Details
Price: $9.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN