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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Jean Muslin ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Jean Muslin
Rear is a mess :^(
kowgiirl.up
kowgiirl.up
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Date: 3/12/13 12:36 PM

This is my first muslin for a pair of jeans. This is a copy of a pair of jeans that I currently own. I have not included the waist band on the muslin.

Also know, that I know ZERO about fitting but will do my best to understand any help I get :)

I have the front side view too but didn't know if I should post in the same thread or not.

The problem and please don't run away screaming (laughing is OK though):
As you can see the backside (butt, can I say butt??) is a mess. I am just guessing that the crotch area is one of the problems? I don't know if there isn't enough "curve" or it's too short or what the heck.

Sorry I'm not standing straight but it's pretty hard to take a pic of your hindend yourself .


-- Edited on 3/12/13 12:38 PM --
-- Edited on 3/12/13 12:39 PM --

------
Runs with scissors
Universal Deluxe Zig Zag from the 60's
Singer Quantum Stylist 9960
Singer Treadle 127 Egyptian
Juki MO 735

HarrietHomeowner

HarrietHomeowner  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/12/13 12:41 PM

Okay, I am probably not the person to answer this, but I'll start: I think you need to at least baste a waistband onto these to get an idea of the fit -- it looks like you are pulling them higher than they should be, causing the fabric to bunch up. If you pull them down so that the waist seam hits you at the same place as the original pair, does that improve them?

Nancy K
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In reply to kowgiirl.up <<
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Date: 3/12/13 2:16 PM

Are you sure that the original pants actually fit you well? This doesn't really look like you started out copying a pair that fits you. Craftsy.com offers a class with Kenneth King in copying your jeans, called jeanious. Take a look.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

kowgiirl.up
kowgiirl.up
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In reply to HarrietHomeowner <<


Date: 3/12/13 2:33 PM

I did have them pulled up. I banged out a waistband and attached.



The front...


-- Edited on 3/12/13 2:40 PM --

------
Runs with scissors
Universal Deluxe Zig Zag from the 60's
Singer Quantum Stylist 9960
Singer Treadle 127 Egyptian
Juki MO 735

kowgiirl.up
kowgiirl.up
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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 3/12/13 2:38 PM

I am enrolled in that class.
The jeans I copied are my best fitting jean (not that my jeans fit perfect though).
Once I made the muslin I couldn't get the muslin jean past my hips once I tried it on. I went back and let out all the stitching lines 1/2" (each) and now they look real baggy.

------
Runs with scissors
Universal Deluxe Zig Zag from the 60's
Singer Quantum Stylist 9960
Singer Treadle 127 Egyptian
Juki MO 735

Ms. McCall
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Date: 3/12/13 2:49 PM

Do the original jeans have any stretch in them? Do they fit in a similar way to the muslin? If the jeans don't have stretch, and they fit you better than this muslin, I would re-check the crotch shape, and make sure it matches the originals.

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BrownPaperPattern.blogspot.com

kowgiirl.up
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In reply to Ms. McCall <<


Date: 3/12/13 3:12 PM

The originals have no stretch (100% cotton). I put my orginal jeans back on after you asked the question and they do fit better but now I can see simularites in the two. The originals fit snug and do not bag but I did notice the 'pulling' on the backside simular to what I have on the muslin, although the muslin is much more exaggerated.

------
Runs with scissors
Universal Deluxe Zig Zag from the 60's
Singer Quantum Stylist 9960
Singer Treadle 127 Egyptian
Juki MO 735

Tarrbaby
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Date: 3/13/13 7:49 AM

I was taught diagonal wrinkles are depth/dart issues. It looks like to start you need to add a bit of length to the back crotch seam along the inseam. That would release the crotch, but then you have "flat buns" issues to deal with. Silhouette patterns has a good pant fitting webcast(free) on Peggy sagers website. Start there and you will pick up some tips.

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Dawn T.

ryan's mom
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Date: 3/13/13 11:39 AM

If these photos were of me, I tell you what approach I would use.

Top/down. Get everything above the hipline to fit right. Make sure the waistband is on. Use denim as your muslin material, and I would buy about 10 yards of it. (I've done this!) Make sure you have marked visible horizontal lines at high hip, hip, and crotchline as well as a vertical grainline down the legs on the front and back. Without these crucial lines, it's hard to see if the pants are hanging correctly.

Work from the top down and pinch, pinch, pinch. If your photos were my photos, I'd pinch out the excess in the CF seam, there is some. Then pinch out some at the CB seam above the hip and smooth some of the back excess near the sides into the side seams.

The jeans muslin seems way too big for jeans. Get above the hip right, then tackle the crotch. Yes, I do think you will have to add some at the back crotch extension but I wouldn't even go there first. Work above the hip, then below because everything hangs from the waist.

I worked on several pants and a jeans draft when Shannon Gifford offered fitting classes here on PR. I quickly learned that cotton muslin doesn't quite give the same fit as denim when I made my sample denim capris after getting a great fit in cotton muslin. I like my jeans tight and with a touch of lycra so doing the muslin in the same fabric is a huge help. It might seem like a waste of fabric, but it's not. It actually saved me much aggravation.
-- Edited on 3/13/13 11:48 AM --

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Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing/Embroidery Combo Machine: Janome MC15000. Sewing Machines: Elna 740, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3. Sergers: Babylock Imagine and Babylock Enlighten. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E

If you think your sewing is better than everyone else's around here, get out of my way b****. I hate sewing snobs.

My blog: www.phatchickdesigns.blogspot.com

ryan's mom
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Date: 3/13/13 11:45 AM

Adding that Jean Haas once offered a class here at PR called Darting Below the Beltline. I think she still offers it on her website or it can be purchased as a CD. It will give you a custom mold, skin fit pattern of your exact shape above the hipline. I use that template all the time for every skirt and pair of pants I make. It's perfect for every fitted skirt, pants, and jeans pattern. I did the same for my younger daughter as well but she needs a new one now since that is about 5 years old.

------
Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing/Embroidery Combo Machine: Janome MC15000. Sewing Machines: Elna 740, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3. Sergers: Babylock Imagine and Babylock Enlighten. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E

If you think your sewing is better than everyone else's around here, get out of my way b****. I hate sewing snobs.

My blog: www.phatchickdesigns.blogspot.com

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