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Forum > Beginner's Forum > altering/changing McCall's 5525 trench coat ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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altering/changing McCall's 5525 trench coat
need help realizing my vision
phillykitty
phillykitty
Member since 1/15/13
Posts: 26
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Date: 3/13/13 1:38 PM

Hi everyone,
This is my first post. I learned to sew from my Mom when I was in high school but I haven't really made anything for over 15 years.

I am about to tackle the McCall's 5255 trench coat

McCalls 5525

but I want to alter the pattern to make it look more like this:

dream trench

FYI, I will be making this out of some Tiffany blue cotton twill that I got for a $1/yd on clearance. Even though it was so cheap I still plan on making a muslin.

Here is what I think I have to do:
1. I know that I will have to add a waist seam. The princess seams will end at the waist. I then will have to redraft the bottom portion of the jacket to be fuller and allow enough width at the waist for the pleats. What is the best way to do this? Slash and spread? Should the bottom hem
be more curved than the original? The back has a vent so I will have to make sure I have a big enough seam allowance to accommodate one.

2. The sleeves are two part. I think converting sleeves to two piece may be beyond the scope of my abilities even though I did find an old Threads article on how to do this.

3. My main question is about the collar. I can't quite wrap my brain around how that is constructed or how I should redraw the pattern. It is hard to tell from the pictures if there is a seam line under the fold. Any one know of any similar patterns.

4. Hidden buttons. No idea how to do this? Any one know of any articles or tutorials on this topic.

Thanks so much.

-- Edited on 3/13/13 1:41 PM --

aonori
aonori
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 9/27/08
Posts: 106
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In reply to phillykitty <<


Date: 3/13/13 5:25 PM

Hi phillykitty,

I just want to touch on a couple things. Your links are not working because they're missing a colon (should start with http://...). I'm going to post the fixed links here:

McCalls 5525

Dream Trench

I found a close-up photo of the collar on the same designer's trench that's almost the same. Click on the collar detail pic:

Dahlia Funnel Neck with collar detail

So you can see there's a seam in the collar. If you watch the catwalk video of the khaki trench, there's also a complicated extra flap with buckle straps on the collar front.

I don't know if you wanted to alter the sleeve tops, but to copy it, you'd have to raise the cap a little & slash & spread it. Yes, for the skirt, slashing & spreading sounds good. Draw some vertical lines from waist to hem where you want the pleats to go, decide on the depth. I guess I would cut on the lines where the pleats will be formed, then 1st spread the bottom to how wide you want it to fan out, then this will form a curve at the hem, because you're not spreading the waist yet. Then you slash again from the waist to the bottom & spread at the top according to the depth of the pleat. Do you have any patternmaking books? That would help. I can't think of any online tutes offhand, but they're probably out there.

The buttons look like some large snaps. To hide the top portion, you just sew it (or attach it) to the facing only. There are probably some coat patterns around that have a funnel collar like that. HTH.


phillykitty
phillykitty
Member since 1/15/13
Posts: 26
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Date: 3/14/13 0:19 AM

Thanks. So helpful. Those additional photos that you linked to
gave me more hints as to the construction.

I don't have any pattern making books but I will get one now that you have recommended it.

Fingers crossed and I will post a photo when it is done. Hopefully before it gets too warm to wear it!

p.s. As to the front yoke thing, I was just going to leave it off as I don't love it. And yes the sleeves are a little poofier but I think I can live without that.

aonori
aonori
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 9/27/08
Posts: 106
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In reply to phillykitty <<


Date: 3/14/13 10:03 PM

Phillykitty, I forgot to say, welcome to PR! I'm glad you can live without those extra details. That'll make it easier!

You asked about adding a vent. Well I was just going to explain how the pattern piece looks for that, but I see that your McCall's pattern already has a vent! I'll look forward to your photos, the coat looks really cute. Have fun.

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