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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > Can't remeber how to do it ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Can't remeber how to do it
Learn To Sew
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Learn To Sew  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/13/13 2:47 PM

It has been a long time since I made a blouse. The pattern is one I made up before, so this helps some. The pattern is a camp shirt. It was altered a year agoand I just don't remember certain things about the layout and pleats.

larger picture

Version b, short sleeves. You will notice the shoulder area has pleats. I am making an altered size 16 with a Y style FBA. What I don't remember well is how to lay the Front pattern piece out. Do I TRY to release the pleats or not? I am not sure since it is so altered I can even release them. They are currently taped closed. I guess that was done when I pin fitted it at the class. This was done at Palmer/Pletsch. I will also write Marta Alto and ask her. In the meantime, I'd like to refresh my memory and so forth.

Since the FBA has been done, how do I get it flat enough to lay down for pinning on the fabric and cutting?
-- Edited on 3/13/13 2:48 PM --

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I am a Quilter at heart. I love to play with fabrics, patterns and colors. Recently I have discovered I enjoy doing applique. I love making pictures. Using a sewing machine is much easier than counted cross stitch or oil painting for me. I enjoy landscape quilting as well. I am working on my first applique project in the spring of 2014.
Bernina 630, my main machine
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PattiAnnJ
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Subject: Cant remeber how to do it Date: 3/13/13 5:08 PM

Slit the tape with a razor blade. The rest, I am not following.

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Marie367
Marie367  Friend of PR
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In reply to Learn To Sew <<


Date: 3/13/13 5:09 PM

That looks like a nice shirt. So did you ever make it up after the fitting? If you did, then you look at how you did it. If I am understanding you correctly, the pleats were pinned for the fitting but you should release them to cut it out of the fabric-then you would sew them in when you make the shirt. I think if you release the pleats then the pattern will lay flat (or close to flat). Does that make sense? HTH

Learn To Sew
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Date: 3/13/13 6:36 PM

Pictues of the altered pattern.

picture 1

picture 2 pleats

more pleats

Hope this helps. The bust point area is kind of Poofy, and I think it only shows up in picture 1.
I can't really release the Left pleat as it is connected to the adjustment so much. Only just release it a little.

When I made this shirt 6 years ago, it was an 18 in the sholders and a 20 in the body. No altering of any kind, as it was a class project and the teacher did not know how to do an FBA. Now that I know how to do one, I dont' remember how to get it to lay down flat enough and still be open enough at the shoulder pleats to pin and cut. I am concerned it will end up too small.

The class shirt was too small, but now I have dropped a few pounds, it fits. I want the altered pattern one to fit too. This is my first try on an altered pattern in a few years.
-- Edited on 3/13/13 6:40 PM --

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I am a Quilter at heart. I love to play with fabrics, patterns and colors. Recently I have discovered I enjoy doing applique. I love making pictures. Using a sewing machine is much easier than counted cross stitch or oil painting for me. I enjoy landscape quilting as well. I am working on my first applique project in the spring of 2014.
Bernina 630, my main machine
Pfaff 2036, my class machine
Babylock Molly
Bernina 1200DA serger
Unique Sewing Cabinet 450L

B

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Date: 3/13/13 7:03 PM

I can't tell if it has darts to the bust, but they would have to be opened also to help it lay flat, as well as the shoulder darts.

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Learn To Sew
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In reply to B <<
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Date: 3/13/13 7:26 PM

No bust darts, as those were rotated to the shoulders in the pleats.
I have the Back cut out and it should be fine. Now I have the collar piece on the fabric section ready for pinning. I am using the section right next to the B, as it is a good spot to use. I have plenty of fabric, so I am not worried too much if I goof.

I'll do the Front last, as I am most unsure of it.

------
I am a Quilter at heart. I love to play with fabrics, patterns and colors. Recently I have discovered I enjoy doing applique. I love making pictures. Using a sewing machine is much easier than counted cross stitch or oil painting for me. I enjoy landscape quilting as well. I am working on my first applique project in the spring of 2014.
Bernina 630, my main machine
Pfaff 2036, my class machine
Babylock Molly
Bernina 1200DA serger
Unique Sewing Cabinet 450L

SouthernStitch
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In reply to Learn To Sew <<


Date: 3/14/13 0:06 AM

If there are no darts in the bust area, and they were rotated up, I'm not sure why then the bust area is so puffy! Seems to me if you release the pleats at the top and press them out, the bust area might lay flatter? That bust area looks sort of a mess to me.
With most tissue fitting, you would leave the taped areas actually taped up - you keep the nips and tucks in as you cut.
This case is a bit more confusing, as you really can't tell what you are supposed to do with that shoulder area. Looks to me like maybe one is to remain taped and the other is to be a pleat?

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simplystitches
simplystitches
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Date: 3/14/13 1:08 AM

The original pattern looks like it had two shoulder pleats. If I understood you correctly you said they rotated the dart into the pleats and did an FBA. I can't see any logical reason they would put both pleats and the rotated dart all into one pleat. In my opinion it would be a very large pleat. Logically I would think both taped pleats should be opened up to get it to lay flat.

How deep it the smaller pleat that's taped closed so much?

Debbie

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In reply to simplystitches <<
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Date: 3/14/13 10:20 AM

As wide as the first pleat. I am not sure anymore why it ended up the way it did from tissue fitting. It just did. I do remember it fit me very well.

I have every pattern piece traced but the Front one, naturally. If I had it traced, I would have made another shirt like the one I did years ago. Now it is beginning to look like I should find another pattern and try again. I don't have time to do all this. I am very slow in sewing, and I need the shirt in 2 months. While this might seem like a long time line to most, to me it is very short.
Marta wants me to call her today, so I will. She is not computer savy. I might end up visiting her over this.

------
I am a Quilter at heart. I love to play with fabrics, patterns and colors. Recently I have discovered I enjoy doing applique. I love making pictures. Using a sewing machine is much easier than counted cross stitch or oil painting for me. I enjoy landscape quilting as well. I am working on my first applique project in the spring of 2014.
Bernina 630, my main machine
Pfaff 2036, my class machine
Babylock Molly
Bernina 1200DA serger
Unique Sewing Cabinet 450L

SouthernStitch
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Date: 3/14/13 1:29 PM

Well I would visit for sure. I mean, really, it seems to me they shouldn't have left you with a tissue altered pattern, but no written instructions on what was done, so you could bring the pattern back to a flat state. Not even any markings on the pattern to indicate what was done. Very confusing.

------
Bernina 780, and 530
Juki TL2010
Babylock Evolution
Singer 403a

When life gives you green velvet curtains, make a green velvet dress.

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