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Forum > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > Foundation for chiffon surplice bodice ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Foundation for chiffon surplice bodice
Do I use the overlapping shape in the underlining?
barbarahf
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barbarahf  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/18/13 1:34 PM

I'm making a bridesmaid's dress out of red chiffon lined with stretch satin. The bodice is a ruched surplice style and the skirt is a multi-layered, graduated length handkerchief skirt. My question is whether or not to make the underlining of the bodice a surplice or just make it the shape of the neckline and drape the chiffon over it.
For the bodice, I'm looking at something like this, only it has upper bodice & shoulders of just chiffon.


Bodice layers from body out are lining, twill with boning, lightweight flannel, stretch satin, chiffon.

I want to criss-cross the chiffon & pleat or gather one side. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Barbara
-- Edited on 3/18/13 1:35 PM --

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Barbara
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barbarahf
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barbarahf  Friend of PR
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In reply to barbarahf <<
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Date: 3/18/13 1:37 PM

My image link isn't working. Here's the URL to copy & paste.
http://www.topwedding.com/cap-sleeved-ruched-surplice-bodice-long-chiffon-evening-dress-with-side-draping-lf00122446.html

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Barbara
It's all about the costumes!

DolphinDancer30
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Date: 3/18/13 5:09 PM

With all those layers, I would vote for a plain V-neck bodice, no surplice/wrap. If there's a zipper in the bodice, you have no mechanical need for a surplice. Your bridesmaid will appreciate having less bulk at the midriff/waist line.

KathleenS
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KathleenS  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/19/13 4:31 AM

I agree, just make it the shape of the neckline.

MaryDB
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MaryDB  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/19/13 12:53 PM

Every chiffon ruched bodice dress I've made has had the chiffon ruching or pleating directionally attached to a stay piece, (usually made out of an interfaced piece of the lining), and then those pieces are sewn together to form the bodice. I think if you look closely at your picture, you will see that the chiffon is not actually criss-crossing, there are seams where the two directions of ruching meet.

I've had best luck by pulling the (gathered) chiffon pieces into ruched pleats and then fusing it like that onto a stay piece.

Edited to add:

You might take a look at the directions for Vogue 8150. Your pieces would be a little different for the style of bodice, but you could see how that look is constructed.

That's a beautiful dress you're making! Good luck!
-- Edited on 3/19/13 1:03 PM --
-- Edited on 3/19/13 1:04 PM --

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