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Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Question about bias technique and hanging fabric to stretch ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Question about bias technique and hanging fabric to stretch
from article in Threads # 107 (Bias layouts made easier)
kkkkaty
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kkkkaty  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/19/13 10:06 AM

I am trying out the interesting layout shown in Threads # 107 as my intro to sewing on the bias. It would be quite difficult to explain here, but you basically take an on-grain rectangle of fabric, fold it to itself on a 45/90 degree angle, sew the edge, and continue doing that until you end up with a fully encased (and twisted) envelope. Then you cut that open on two ends, and you have a tube of fabric that is now on the bias. I want to make a burda shell that is a bias garment, and one advantage to the technique is you can actually cut the pattern on the fold, rather than cut half, flip it over and cut the other half. You do end up with seams in the fabric, but those can be an interesting design feature; you could even highlight them with piping or other details.

So with that background, on to my actual question. As with any bias project, you are advised (in the Threads article) to cut out the pattern pieces and then hang them overnight to let the fabric relax. Since this technique produces a tube (relatively large, depending on how much fabric you start with), is there any reason not to first hang the tube, and then later cut the pattern pieces out?

TIA, Kate

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Viking Lily 545
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d

PetitePear
PetitePear
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Date: 3/19/13 1:26 PM

That's a good idea. I love bias garments but they're always such fabric hog and difficult to cut. This solves both problems.

I suppose if you hang the tube before cutting, you have to make sure you cut every pieces in the same direction, but other than that, I don't see why it wouldn't work.

kkkkaty
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kkkkaty  Friend of PR
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In reply to PetitePear <<


Date: 3/19/13 1:31 PM

IT is supposed to allow for more efficient layouts, which makes sense.

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Viking Lily 545
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d

Rosews13
Rosews13  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/19/13 1:35 PM

My thinking is that the stretch fom the hanging needs to be distributed according to the weight of the garment with no additional stress added from the excess fabric of the tube. Make sense? It's so easy to just cut out the garment, sew shoulder seams, baste side seams and hang it on a hanger overnight. I always cut an extra half inch or inch seam allowance on the sides because fabrics hang out differently and you may need that extra. Though you didn't ask, if you could just fold the fabric on the bias and cut without making the tube, that would always be my preference. Sometimes a seam is necessary to get the size you need and that necessitates having a seam which could, as you say, be used as a design element.

I have made many bias tops over the last 25 years while costuming for college dance concerts and also for an adult professioinal tap company. I make cap sleeve, sleevelss, tank and camisole styles from 60" inch wide fabric if possible, so I don't need an extra seam. I usually hand paint or dye my finished tops so I am not limited in fabric choices.

Good luck on your venture into the"bias." Hope you are successful and that you love it!

kkkkaty
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In reply to Rosews13 <<


Date: 3/20/13 9:48 AM

Thanks, Rosews13, your interpretation is helpful, especially the comment about the excess weight of the tube. ! I'll probably experiment a little. I am excited about trying this new (to me) technique, and will come back to this thread when I complete something. thx a lot, Kate

------
Viking Lily 545
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d

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