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Could someone diagnose the problem with these pants?
Same fabric bunching on another pattern
birdmcfarland
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birdmcfarland
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Date: 3/19/13 2:56 PM

I made a couple different muslins of Colette Patterns' Clover pants and kept getting an excess of fabric in the lower abdomen area, among other things. I scrapped that and tried a pair from the latest Burda and had the same thing happen. This is a simple, 7/8 length, side-zipper, high waisted pair of trousers.
Is it me? The fabric? The pattern? Am I too picky? I wanted these to be slightly more form fitting but I have what seems to be excess fabric in both the front lower abdomen and the back of the thighs. The fabric is a cotton stretch sateen from Fabric Mart. I haven't hemmed these or finished the waistband facing. You can see them hem hanging down.

Here's a general shot:


Is there a lot of fabric here? Or is this just how it goes with high-waisted pants? I can't make these any smaller or they won't fit. They're a 38.


Left leg looking down




It seems like there's a lot of extra in the back thighs too:



These aren't so bad that I won't wear them, but I wouldn't mind making another pair.
Thanks!!
Melody

-- Edited on 3/19/13 2:57 PM --

simplystitches
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In reply to birdmcfarland <<


Date: 3/19/13 3:57 PM

For the extra length in the front pin in a tuck/dart, wider at cf to nothing at the ss, until the length is where you want it. Just remember to not take over do it or they'll be too snug in the front crotch. There's really nothing you can do to this pair but you can at least alter the pattern for the next pair.

To tell anything about the back thigh you need to post with pics of the ss and the back straight on. Please don't pull at the extra fabric!
Edit-that should be pic from the side, not the ss.
Debbie
-- Edited on 3/19/13 4:20 PM --

Red Dragon
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Red Dragon
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In reply to birdmcfarland <<


Date: 3/19/13 3:57 PM

Its rare for pants to fit straight off the pattern, but nice work on this pair.
Others will probably provide more detail, as it looks like you may need to shorten the front crotch a bit, but to adjust the wrinkles out of the pattern pinch the wrinkles and pin them on the finished pair until you are happy with how they look and sit on you. You will need help to do the back. Put these over the pattern piece and pin the same places, then you can either sticky tape these bits down or redraw the piece as you prefer. That way, next time you make them you have adjusted the extra bits of fabric out.

------
Tracy, Canberra

Janome 7700QCP, Janome 4618QC, Husky S25 overlock/coverstitch

lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/19/13 4:58 PM

Sometimes the crotch just "droops" with a stretch fabric. Try using some kind of stay tape in the crotch area next time to keep it from stretching.

birdmcfarland
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birdmcfarland
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Date: 3/19/13 6:46 PM

Thanks for your suggestions. I wasn't sure if that's how high waisted pants fit or not. This is the first pair I've tried.
Here's what the back looks like, as unflattering as it is:



I am so disappointed that these don't look better. I LOVE this fabric!

Nancy K
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In reply to birdmcfarland <<


Date: 3/19/13 6:56 PM

Your crotch is way too long. As someone else suggested take a tuck until all of the excess is eliminated. I think that you have to take a tuck all the way around since you have a lot of excess length at the side seams. The back is hard to tell since you are pulling out the excess. Post another picture with a straight side view and one straight on rear view, arms at sides, front too. It is always important when posting pictures for fitting help that you are standing straight , arms at side, not hip sprung and straight on to the camera from all sides.
I think that the rear problem is probably a flat butt, but this is easiest to see in a side picture.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

starryfish
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starryfish  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/19/13 6:58 PM

These look pretty good! anytime I try a new pants pattern I make a muslin first. I agree that you need to take a tuck out of the front next time.
I stitch some 1/2" twill tape to the CB seam to stop it stretching out. The back looks like you should take some fabric out of the back thigh; that is sew the back inseam deeper tapering down to the knee.

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birdmcfarland
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birdmcfarland
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Date: 3/19/13 8:00 PM

Ok, thanks. Ill redo some photos tomorrow afternoon. I would love to get these right.

skae
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In reply to birdmcfarland <<


Date: 3/19/13 8:25 PM

just take a pinch on the underside and on the outside from the base of the hip line and pin until it smooth's out.
This should take some of the bagginess out a little bit.

------
Ecclesiastes 11:7,8 Nothing on earth is more beautiful than the morning sun. Even if you live to a ripe old age, you should try to enjoy each day, because darkness will come and will last a long time. (CEV)

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