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Slim, narrow-shouldered men's shirt pattern?
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westmoon
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Date: 3/19/13 9:42 PM

A friend and I were discussing his severe problem in finding shirts that fit. He's tall (6'2") but has a very slim and relatively narrow-shouldered build. He finds it difficult to buy shirts that fit well in terms of length of body and especially sleeves without being much too large in the shoulder. To get a decent fit he relies on buying a very few, expensive European designer shirts which seem to be cut in a style more suited to his body shape than what is available locally (he lives in Canada).

I have a feeling that we might end up copying an existing well-fitting shirt, but I did wonder if anyone who sews menswear has come across any particularly slim fitting shirt patterns that we could also consider.
-- Edited on 3/19/13 9:43 PM --

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Sewshable1
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Date: 3/20/13 3:16 AM

S8725 in a search for vintage men's shirt pattern. It occurred to me, having lived through it, that in the 70's, men's shirt patterns were cut to fit much closer to the body than before or since. So I thought I'd see what was on offer., and this extra tall pattern popped up. You might have to make some adjustments, anyway, in collar shape, or tail, but it would be a place to start.
-- Edited on 3/20/13 3:17 AM --

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rag doll
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Date: 3/20/13 7:30 PM

yes I agree that the vintage style would be the way to go if you can get it.

Failing that, Islander Designs have some great men's shirt patterns. The instructions are also very comprehensive. My DH wears a slim fit and their 3504 fits him well.

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Date: 3/20/13 8:59 PM

Peggy Sager's just released a modern men's shirt pattern (Silhouette Patterns)

She also has a free online video on her web channel describing the shirt and alterations for personal fit.

LauraTS
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Subject: Slim, narrow-shouldered mens shirt pattern? Date: 3/21/13 4:30 PM

Have you looked at Colette's Negroni?

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beauturbo
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In reply to westmoon <<
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Date: 3/21/13 5:31 PM

I'm not a guy, and have not made this pattern, or worn it, but I think the new Vouge pattern of # 8889 looks pretty promising for that kind of thing. Has lots of shaping seams on it, and placed in a way more to the sides, not real obvious about it, either. Of course if someone is real lanky and tall, then the sleeves and body of the shirt might have to be made longer/taller too though, but that could happen on anything else too. See here to check that one out:



Judy Williment
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Date: 3/22/13 5:01 AM

I've had great success with Burda 8471, which I can't find on their website, sadly. I've made it over a dozen times for my husband and his twin brother, and twice for one of their friends. For each of them I found it very easy to custom fit by matching chest and neck from the pattern, and tweaking where the sleeve was set. For a long body and sleeves it's easy to add length to the pattern if circumferences are right. I did find B7767 which seems to be very similar though.

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westmoon
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Date: 3/22/13 5:04 AM

Thank you for all your ideas everyone! I am going to keep an eye out for vintage patterns and look into some of your suggestions. The difficulty is in finding a pattern that is formal enough for my friend's taste -- loose-fitting, casually styled shirts like Negroni are not his thing at all.

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Karla Kizer
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In reply to beauturbo <<


Date: 3/22/13 6:29 AM

I would probably have made the same suggestion before one professional shirtmaker tried this Vogue pattern and ran out of bad words to use in connection with it. I've wondered if I could adapt it to ladies' wear, because I like the design lines, but she has me rethinking that idea.

Since length is such an easy thing to alter, I'd find a pattern with promising shoulder width and use RTW to figure out how much to lengthen the torso and the sleeve.

EDIT: It's nice to see Judy W posting here. It's been too long since I've seen anything from her! And I remember those shirts made with that Burda pattern. The fit was great.
-- Edited on 3/22/13 6:37 AM --

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Trinity.
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Subject: Slim, narrow-shouldered mens shirt pattern? Date: 3/22/13 9:57 AM

You could try Burda 7767. I made more of those than I could possibly remember for my oldest son to wear to work. They have a nice, slim fit.

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I've also noticed the last two (one was DKNY, the other Kenneth Cole) shirts that I bought for him had back darts. An interesting idea if you find it hard to get men's shirt with a slim enough fit.
-- Edited on 3/22/13 9:59 AM --

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