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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > FBA for Butterick 5814?

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FBA for Butterick 5814?
FBA on a wrap top
j Renee Design
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j Renee Design
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Date: 3/21/13 10:58 AM

So, I spent most of my night last night combing through the various threads on FBAs looking for one that applied to wrap tops (kind of hard to search for on here! Had to search for FBA and comb through about 20 pages of material). I kept seeing a reference to a tutorial on Debbie Cook's blog, but don't see a wrap bodice specific tutorial in the alterations section.

In any case, I'm looking for info on doing an FBA on Gertie's super cute B5814. I traced the pattern last night, intending to attempt some sort of FBA, but I just kind of...stared at it for a while. LOL

I wish I had taken a photo of the pattern piece, but it's basically just a waist dart and then a wrap tail. I understand how to do a typical slash and spread FBA, but I always get tripped up on wrap tops when it comes to the tail portion.

In an FBA on a bodice that is cut on the fold, you cut the lower CF to match the new length of your darts (AKA the right part of the bodice in the first photo here.) In a wrap top, do you cut along the whole length of the tail and lengthen everything evenly, including the part of the tail that's sewn into the side seam?

Also, this bodice has an overlay that doesn't have any darts at all. Do I just slash and spread that portion and fill in the blanks with paper?

I really feel like I should know how to do this, but can someone give me a hint if I'm on the right track?

ETA: If it's helpful, I typically take a 1/2" to 3/4" FBA (each side - so a total of 1 to 1 1/2" extra room for the ladies)
-- Edited on 3/21/13 11:00 AM --

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Jess
Sewing, Knitting, Living: http://www.sometimessewist.wordpress.com

2013 - Bought: 181, Used: 96, Stashed: 85
2014 - Carryover: 85, Bought: 22 3/4, Used: 52 1/8, Stashed: 56 5/8

j Renee Design
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j Renee Design
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Date: 3/21/13 4:12 PM

I probably should've posted this in Fitting Woes instead...

Anyone have any ideas or reassurances?

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Jess
Sewing, Knitting, Living: http://www.sometimessewist.wordpress.com

2013 - Bought: 181, Used: 96, Stashed: 85
2014 - Carryover: 85, Bought: 22 3/4, Used: 52 1/8, Stashed: 56 5/8

KathySews
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Date: 3/21/13 5:05 PM

This is one where I suggest doing a muslin to play with alternatives. Is the pattern different on the left and right sides?

I would think that you can create your fba then rotate it into the gathers. If that is not possible you can split the fba into the front and side.

Can you give us photos of the pattern pieces? That would help.

j Renee Design
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j Renee Design
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In reply to KathySews <<


Date: 3/21/13 7:21 PM

Yes, I will definitely be making a muslin. I am just kind of paralyzed on where to start... Finally got home...here are some photos.

The left bodice and both left and right lining look like this:


(the dart seems really wide already...especially for a standard Big 4 pattern B cup...)

And the dartless overlay with the pleats looks like this:

-- Edited on 3/21/13 7:24 PM --

------
Jess
Sewing, Knitting, Living: http://www.sometimessewist.wordpress.com

2013 - Bought: 181, Used: 96, Stashed: 85
2014 - Carryover: 85, Bought: 22 3/4, Used: 52 1/8, Stashed: 56 5/8

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/22/13 8:58 AM

Honestly, I skipped this pattern for this reason. However, looking at the line drawings, if I were to attempt it, my first instinct would be to do a standard FBA on both the bodice and the overlay. Then, I might leave the bust darts in the bodice if they looked nice, or rotate them to the waist. This all depends on how big an fba you need. The waist dart may need to be an s shape.

For the overlay, I would rotate the dart into the gathers/pleats and evenly distribute the fullness between them.

------
Melanie

j Renee Design
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j Renee Design
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In reply to meleliza <<


Date: 3/22/13 11:21 AM

Yeah...seems like lots of people skipped it for that reason, based on the comments on Gertie's blog.

Last night I decided to just try and do *something* to the pattern... Ended up doing a pretty standard FBA,



and just adding a strip of paper at the waist seam to even out the dart leg, as such:



Also decided it still might be a little too low for me, so I made the neckline a little less...swoopy (a real technical term there).



I know moving the extra fullness into the pleats will look the nicest. However, I'm thinking I will probably keep the horizontal bust darts in the left side of the bodice. If I don't, I'll end up with a crazy massive waist dart. Because of that, I popped a horizontal bust dart in the overlay (right; forgot to take a picture...) for symmetry. Or, do you think it would look better with a dart on one side and not on the other? Would I be better off preserving the dartlessness of the overlay?

Haven't gotten around to making a muslin yet, but we'll see how it goes this weekend!
-- Edited on 3/22/13 11:59 AM --

------
Jess
Sewing, Knitting, Living: http://www.sometimessewist.wordpress.com

2013 - Bought: 181, Used: 96, Stashed: 85
2014 - Carryover: 85, Bought: 22 3/4, Used: 52 1/8, Stashed: 56 5/8

tinflutterby
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Date: 3/22/13 7:55 PM

You might be able to rotate some of the fulness to the shoulder/arm seam or the side and ease it rather than darting it. I always need some extra cleavage cover with a wrap top. I also usually end up fitting the underbust to waist on the fly. I have learned to give myself a wide seam at the waist. Usually I need more length under the bust and less in the center front. As to the dart have you considered changing to 2 darts there?

j Renee Design
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j Renee Design
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Date: 3/25/13 10:22 AM

So, I sewed up my muslin this weekend (forgot to take pictures!) and my typical 3/4" (1 1/2" total) FBA it was...a bit too big! The dart was pretty big looking to begin with, so I'm guessing this pattern runs a bit larger than a B in the bust.

I'm in the processing of adjusting the FBA to 1/2", and am distributing the dart fullness more evenly between the waist and bust dart. Thought about doing 2 waist darts, as you suggested, tinflutterby, but I thought that still might look too...pointy? Ha.

I think I probably will rotate the overlay dart somewhere else...If I put it into the shoulder/arm seam will I basically then have gathers to contend with? Or should I just rotate the dart into the pleats instead?
-- Edited on 3/25/13 10:42 AM --

------
Jess
Sewing, Knitting, Living: http://www.sometimessewist.wordpress.com

2013 - Bought: 181, Used: 96, Stashed: 85
2014 - Carryover: 85, Bought: 22 3/4, Used: 52 1/8, Stashed: 56 5/8

meleliza
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Date: 3/27/13 11:48 PM

I think if you want to preserve the pattern lines, you rotate the fullness into the overlay pleats, distributing it evenly. I've done this successfully with a few wrap bodices. Or, rotate it into the shoulder and use gathers, if that's what you prefer.

------
Melanie

tinflutterby
tinflutterby  Friend of PR
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In reply to j Renee Design <<


Date: 3/28/13 3:49 PM

I was thinking of rotating no more than you could ease into the shoulder so no gathers just a bit more fullness over the top. It kind of depends on how you are shaped and the fabric. You might find you want more coverage starting at the top and need to widen the shoulder where it attaches to the bodice. If that makes any sense.

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